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Routes in f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Asphodel T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Bag's End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Beatle Brow Bulge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beginner's Delight T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Blueberry Ledges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Blueberry Wine T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Brave Valkyrie T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Columbia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Delusions of Grandeur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Don't Shoot T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Easy Virgin T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Friends and Lovers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Funny Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hawk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Hyjek's Horror T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Le Teton T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Minty T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Mr. P's Wurst T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Northern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Peregrine T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Reach of Faith T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Seldom Mustard Never Relish T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Small Furry Mammals' Club T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snooky's Return T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Son of Immaculate Virgin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Southern Pillar T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Tetonia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tipsy Trees T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Triple Bulges T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Twin Oaks T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Weeping Willie (direct) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Willie's Weep T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy, Stan Gross, Spring 1955. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 1965 |
| Page Views: | 19,901 total · 88/month |
| Shared By: | Mike fenice on Jul 17, 2006 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
In any other part of the country this would easily be 5.10a. It actually reminds me of "Rosy Crucifixion" in Eldo, but slightly less scary.
There are many variations to the top: pick one and go ...
The climb starts in the crack on the left-facing face below the tree. Traverse into the crack and head straight up. At the end of the crack, traverse left under the energy-depleting roof then around the corner, clipping a couple of junky pins. From here, head up and slightly right - don't clip the pin on your left, as it will create too much drag. Instead, place a #2 Camalot with a long sling. Make a few more 5.8 moves to the top and belay at a two-bolt anchor.
Two ropes to the ground, or one rope to another pair of bolts.
There are many variations to the top: pick one and go ...
The climb starts in the crack on the left-facing face below the tree. Traverse into the crack and head straight up. At the end of the crack, traverse left under the energy-depleting roof then around the corner, clipping a couple of junky pins. From here, head up and slightly right - don't clip the pin on your left, as it will create too much drag. Instead, place a #2 Camalot with a long sling. Make a few more 5.8 moves to the top and belay at a two-bolt anchor.
Two ropes to the ground, or one rope to another pair of bolts.
Location
Start from P2 of Northern Pillar. You'll be climbing the right side of the massive Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.
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