George Bell Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Grade III? Yikes, you must be speedy, Justin! In the Urioste "Red Book", this is Grade V! But this assumes going over the top ... Mar 15, 2004

phil broscovak

[Hide Comment] definitely not a grade III Mar 15, 2004

justin dubois Estes Park   5.11

[Hide Comment] OK I did not go over the top, nor did I even do the two pitches after the crux.........I suck. But in my opinion, when it comes to a commitment grade, if EVERY pitch has a huge bolted anchor, just how commited are you? If the Scenic Cruise in the Black is grade V, this can't be more than a III, right?the appraoch should get a V... Mar 15, 2004

George Bell Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] I would argue that the presence of rap anchors does not change the grade of the entire climb at all; however, it does make it easier to shorten the route by rapping off early. Heck if you just want to do the first pitch this could be grade I (well, maybe not considering the approach). The grade should be for doing the entire climb plus normal descent, in my opinion. It is true that most people these days don't do the last few pitches, and I agree done this way it is not a grade V. I don't think any less of you for rapping after the crux, I haven't done the route and doubt I could even get up pitch 2. There are no rules here! Anyway I wouldn't suggest sleeping in and starting the approach at 10 AM for this route, even if you are just planning to go through the pumpfest pitch. The approach is a monster! Mar 16, 2004

TBD

[Hide Comment] Some additional beta on the approach: Follow the river bed up the canyon until it splits. Take the right fork and follow this drainage until you encounter 2 giant pine trees, one on either side of the drainage. The trees are very obvious when you see them. Follow 3rd class ramps back and up to the right towards the wall. Scramble down an approximate 60 ft. gully (3rd - 4th class) before continuing up again to the base of the wall. This approach took us 2 hours exactly. We only did the first 6 pitches, but all were of high quality. The first pitch felt a tad awkward and very different from the pitches above, very fun though. The second pitch roof is easy if you climb in a gym at all. I felt some of the climbing prior to the roof to be more difficult. The fifth pitch is not over once you pull through the jams, very fun and technical. Mar 22, 2004

10b4me 5.11a

[Hide Comment] What's up with all this favorite climb crap? How much climbing have you done? Isn't every climb and experience different?! Why all the hype about this or any other climb? People just like to talk, talk, talk!!! May 25, 2004

jeff m giddings   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Awesome route! Maybe not the best route at Red Rocks, but it rates pretty high. Much harder than 11a in my estimation. Apr 10, 2005

Drederek Olympia, WA   5.11b

[Hide Comment] Have done this climb twice now and still prefer Epinephrine. The thin section above the jambs was the crux for me and "power liebacking" pitch with 18 bolts (p6?) was my favorite. This formation has the easiest walkoff of any long climbs at Red Rocks and is almost as scenic as Mt Wilson. Doing the last couple pitches is a small price to pay for such an easy, scenic descent. You just wander back along the ridge toward the drainage (pretty much level) and around the backside of a large red mound (well defined trail) then head right down the smooth, brushfree slabs to the pines and over to your packs. From there there is a much easier descent (and ascent on the way in) which basically goes down to an 8' diameter boulder and then winds around slabs slightly updrainage to the stream. I would highly recommend descending this route before trying to ascend it but once you've done it you'll not go the other way. Apr 17, 2005

10b4me 5.11a

[Hide Comment] I felt a little cheated by the bolts. Easily half of them could have been removed and good gear could be placed. If this route were in Eldo, there would be 4 total bolts and 3 bent over pitons. I guess I can't bring my trad ethic on vacation with me. Jan 8, 2006

tenesmus

[Hide Comment] I totally agree its overbolted, but remember no one made you clip them. and oh...eldo schmeldo. Sep 10, 2006

4fun

[Hide Comment] Great Route!! Favorite pitches are pitch two and the very pumpy and very long lie back pitch. I only had 10 quickdraws so the 18bolt pitch became a little more exciting. PS. I have done the climb twice, the first time was a couple days after a big rain storm and the gully was roaring with water, the approach took 3 hours and my partner found himself almost swimming in one of the pools. Oct 29, 2006

Kyle vH

[Hide Comment] Does anyone know if you can rappel this with 1 70m rope? thanks. Dec 1, 2006

Shirtless Mike Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] I did this route over Thanksgiving break. We rappelled the route with 1 70 m no problem, it was only close for 1 pitch edit: (don't remember which actual pitch this was, post below says pitch 4). For a rack we took quite a bit to link together pitches, Pitch 1&2 and 8&9. I believe we used the #2, but the #3 wasn't necessary unless you want to aid the crux. I also don't remember using any micro cams or wires. Pitch 7 now has something like 18 bolts, but many are easily skippable or back cleanable. Overbolted but feels good on the awful rock of that pitch. Dec 5, 2006

Luke Stefurak Chattanooga, TN   5.11+

[Hide Comment] More beta for rapping with a 70m Rope We climbed the route on 11/3 and rapped with a 70m rope. It is really close on the rap from the top of pitch 4(the belay below the crux pitch) to the pitch 3 anchors. The ends of the ropes hang just inches below the next set of rap rings without any weight on the rope. We extended our belay devices and with a bit of stretch had no problem with the rap. We had a brand new rope so the amount of rope stretch should not be an issue. Do BE CAREFUL though since it is very very close. All other pitches reached easily with a 70m rope with many feet to spare. We easily linked 1&2 and 8&9. The biggest issue was rope drag for both of these links. Make sure to use a long slings at the P1 anchor and before and after the P8 anchor. Nov 5, 2007

Jonas Wiklund Barcelona   5.11+

[Hide Comment] Whatever Disturbing the Peace says, if you do this route without any small slcds or wires you pretty much have to solo the 5.8 pitch. Dec 28, 2007

Brad G

[Hide Comment] It would be cool to lead this climb without useing the bolts. There seems to be just enough cracks. Very runout and scary though. Jan 1, 2008

B L Innsbruck

[Hide Comment] a great route. I enjoyed the approach a lot 'cause it's fun jumping trough the river bad. You can easily skip the last part of the creek by walkong up rightwards slabs to a boulder and then scramble up an arete and walk down (40m) to the start. You absolutely NEED small wires for the third 5.8 pitch unless you are suicidal. Holds can break here!! We rappeled after the 6. pitch, every pitch was fun... We rapped with a seventy meter rope, and it was ok. Mar 22, 2008

Karsten Delap North Carolina

[Hide Comment] Use caution with the 70m rope. Our rope (an older Mammut); and another party's rope (Maxim?) did not reach. The other party had extended the rappel devices; rapped to the knots and had to clip in 3 or so feet above the belay. Our rope didn't even come close. 10 ft short? Mar 8, 2009

Anthony Anagnostou nyc

[Hide Comment] you can get to the base of the eagle wall in a little over an hour from oak creek parking. see direct approach beta on the main eagle wall page. Mar 11, 2009

Joe Stern Moab, Utah   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Did the route yesterday (4/25/09)...as fantastic as advertised. I agree with vegastradguy's rack: single set of nuts (being about 4 med-large size) and up to #1 cam (with nuts, probably just a .75 and 1 would be fine). Rapped with single 70m no problem. The last 2 pitches are worth doing once - fun movement on hollow flakes, certainly not mega classic but entertaining enough. Highly recommend the crux pitch extension if you still have a few draws left at the top of the 11c...not only a fun pumpy linkup but you get to skip a hanging belay! Apr 26, 2009

PDF Fusco Lander, WY

[Hide Comment] With a 70, you can link 3&4 5&6 8&9. GREAT LINKUPS!!!!!!!!!!! PS. The walk off is a must, not bad at all, takes about the same amount of time a rapping (maybe just a little longer). Dec 11, 2009

Daniel Trugman Reno, NV   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Awesome route on an awesome wall. No one else in the canyon the whole day, but we were greeted by two bighorn sheep on approach! Walk off was fun but a bit icy this time of year. I would rate the pitches as follows (and by the way, I would say grade IV if you top out, but no one asked me...): 1: 5.10c. Fun but tricky. 2: 5.11a. Tricky stemming to a great jug crux. 3: 5.8. Very fun for the grade. 4: 5.10a. Cool edging. 5: 5.11c. Outstanding face and crack climbing; the money pitch. 6: 5.10d. Technical edging leads to easier crack climbing. 7: 5.11a. A sustained and pumpy pitch. Great climbing but soft rock. 8: 5.10a. Crux move off the belay to 5.9 slabbing on soft rock. 9: 5.8/5.9. Soft rock, not great but you're almost at the top! 10: 5.5. Easy, link this with 9. Jan 1, 2010

Monica Jones Bishop, CA

[Hide Comment] Onsighted the first 11a, 10b, and linked the last two pitches (bad rope drag). Rapped the route, the walk off looked and sounded nightmarish. We bivied a half hour from the route the night before and got the route done with by 1pm. Beautiful route. Apr 4, 2010

Kirk L South Lake Tahoe

[Hide Comment] Is it possible to safely lead the crack sections on gear? hows the rock quality? Oct 16, 2010

Alex Shainman Lakewood, CO

[Hide Comment] Great memories of this route! Did it once with Raleigh Collins (RIP) in 1996. After a late drive from his hang in JTree, we crashed at a lady friend of his' house in Vegas. The plan was to get up super early and hike in to do a couple routes including L29. While I slept, Raleigh and said lady friend partied it up with lots of alcohol and some funny stuff and much crazy sexual exploits which I learned about later...Anyways, my alarm woke me up to the low hum of some music from the bedroom. I banged on the door and after a "Yo dude!!!" or two, RC comes to the doorway looking like, haha, well he looked like he had quite the evening! After half sleeping in the car and excitedly telling me some details of the night, we got to the trailhead. Part way up the hike, Raleigh hurls and painfully continues for a few minutes. At this point, I don't feel sorry for him but I do ask if we should continue. Anyone who knew him would know his pride. We continued to the base and after he puked again, we started up the route. I led every pitch and he followed clean. It's not a particularly difficult route but in his condition, that's like a different situation. I remember him really trying to hold back another hurl-episode while I was leading...lots of muffled coughing until I got to an anchor up high...then he released more bile in a convulsion of sorts-Yikes! We topped out, gave a high-five and proceeded on the descent. I told him that even though we were only doing one route, unlike we had planned, I was still psyched and proud of him for trooping up there and keeping it together. Raleigh was a proud man, in my eyes. Even though I did know of some of his personal troubles, I never knew what really ate away at his core. It really rocked me when I heard of his death in 2006, which appeared to be suicide. Raleigh was a great friend to me, I still miss him! Nov 22, 2010

Pitty Marbach

[Hide Comment] Great, really superb! One of the best! We were afraid by reading the expected times for climbing and aproach but did it in 7 hours, car to car in the end. Apr 27, 2011

Mark Overdevest Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] Deserves every bit of the hype it gets. Pitch after pitch of amazing climbing, great exposure and a remote feeling. We walked off and found it extremely straightforward - the last 5.9 pitch was a little gritty but still good fun. Views were awesome. If you commit to the approach finish the route and walk off it's worth it. Jul 25, 2011

Rob DeZonia Longmont

[Hide Comment] This was one of my first roped climbs in Red Rocks. I remember being really disapointed. We had just done a trip to the Black Canyon and I was expecting a little bit more of an adventure. The first pitch was great. The rest seemed mediocre. This is a feel good route and great for someone new to 5.11. I climbed aross some really sandy 5.10 that I didn't expect on an ultra classic. I think you can clip three bolts from one stance next to a fist sized crack on the crux pitch. I've never gotten over that first impression. My friends think I'm crazy for not liking it. After climbing a couple routes in Red Rocks, I can look back and remember a good route. Sep 4, 2011

Grant Gerhard Verdi, NV

[Hide Comment] At what grade should a trad leader be confident at to do this climb? Are the 10c moves on the first pitch protected by gear or the 4 or so bolts? thanks Oct 11, 2011

Josh Janes

[Hide Comment] Beta for solid climbers: Bring a lot of draws/slings (15-18), green through orange Aliens, no wires, and a 70m rope. With this rack, you'll have to be careful on the first pitch, and you'll have to run out the third 5.8 pitch significantly, but neither are unreasonable. After P3 you need no more trad gear. Link 1 & 2 (awesome mega-pitch) Link 3 & 4 with 5-10' simulclimbing Link 5 (crux) & 6 to avoid a hanging belay Link 7 & 8 Link 9 & 10 to the top Skip bolts, back clean, and use runners well to avoid rope drag on all these linkups. The rap down P4 is very tight... exercise exteme caution. All other raps are fine with a 70m. Nov 29, 2011

Garrett B LC, CO   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Just further confirming you can rap with a single 70m rope, as stated P4 rap is very close Feb 14, 2012

Spencer Weiler Grand Junction

[Hide Comment] Fun climb. Enjoyed all the pitches except 7 as that soft white rock just isn't my favorite. Very insecure. However pitches 1 and 2 were some of my favorite red rock pitches I've done. Loved topping out. I personally didn't mind the tight bolt spacing of pitch 5 as I am a certified wimp. Definitely more of a sport climb than trad climb, but almost every pitch requires at least one gear placement. I brought the #2 but no #3 camalot and thought that was appropriate. It took us around 6.5 hours to climb all 9+ pitches of this sucker with no linkups. As for belay ledges(an enjoyable and important aspect of a climb for me), here is a brief synopsis: pitch 1-semi decent slanting scoop flake ledge thing, can stand on it unsupported 2-borderline crappy, a small ledge 3-2nd best of route, ok ledge 4-hanging belay on slab, not cool 5-full on hanging belay, sucky! 6-best of climb, small, but you can actually sit down! 7-eh, not so good but ok. small but adequate 8-pretty good, hanging on moderate slab, better than 4 9-if rappeling, anchor spot not good, if walking down link to top tree, lie down on top with gear sprawled across time and space Feb 22, 2012

FCJohn Fort Collins, CO   5.11+

[Hide Comment] We parked at the old Oak Creek Campground, took the creek to the pine trees, then directly up the slabs. Took us about 3 hours. We took a few wrong turns at various forks in the trail coming from the road which caused us to zig zag back and forth through the wash. I figured that we could have shaved off at least 30 minutes if we parked on the loop road and knew the trail. The route had fantastic position, but honestly didn't live up to the hype. Pitch 2 was fun movement, but chossy.... Happy with a rack of cams .3,.4,.5,.75, #1, #2 & a few stoppers.... Apr 4, 2012

Pete Muffoletto Oakland, CA

[Hide Comment] Fun route. Super long approach that is easy to make longer than necessary if you delineate from the path. It's a pretty linear approach and impossible not to spot the wall but it is very possible to find yourself zig zagging from one side of the wash to the other. From what I have gathered from many other parties the best way to approach is to go the long way up the 3rd class approach. You definitely do not want to get caught doing the 4th class approach in the dark. What surprised me about this route was the poor quality of rock on pitch 2. Super fun movement but pitch 2 might not exist in a few years. Exercise caution at the crux and DO NOT touch that hanging fang. It's apparent that people have been using it for feet and maybe a hand but that thing will rip if you were to give it a nice kick. Sorry for the beta spoiler but throw a heel hook on the jug below it to avoid the fang. Don't kill your belayer and the 10 parties that are probably waiting below you. Apr 9, 2012

pspoutz Spoutz Livonia, MI

[Hide Comment] 70 meter rope worked great for us for 4th pitch rappel. Extending rappel device helped make it work smoothly. May 25, 2012

Joe Stern Moab, Utah   5.11c

[Hide Comment] As noted by DisturbingThePeace, pitch 7 now has 16 good bolts (plus one vintage). Sure, you can skip a couple or back-clean, but the rock on this pitch is so-so and the pitch is kind of pumpy. So, maybe you want 13 draws, or 16, or 18, or some other random number of your choosing (depending on how far you're going, whether you're linking pitches, and if you're skipping/back-cleaning bolts). Carried 4 med-large stoppers and a set of camalots #.3 to 1, which is exactly what I'll take next time, too. Fun climbing in an awesome position...love it! Apr 3, 2013

steple

[Hide Comment] Pitches 5 and especially 7 are stellar, but what makes the route a Favorite in my opinion is the variability of the climbing (from fingers to fists, from balancy, delicate face to overhanging jugs) paired with the consistently high quality. Thanks Lynn. May 2, 2013

Nelson Day Joshua Tree, CA   5.11

[Hide Comment] Don't let the approach scare you too much. We parked at the Oak Creek pullout on the loop and hiked in. We took a couple breaks and hiked casually, and got to the base of the climb in 2 1/2 hours. Approach beta we used: pretty much just follow the trail until it breaks down into the wash (don't go into the wash too early), head up the wash until you see two really large pine trees, and head up following cairns directly right of the large pine tree on the right. There are several pretty slick areas where you traverse across slab in the wash as the canyon narrows, but the traverses aren't too bad if you are careful. The traverses aren't exposed, just really slippery. There really isn't a reason to bivy at the base of the route. Pack light and just hike the approach the day of your climb. I took 4 liters of water and was dry just before we got back to the car. We were back at the car 12 hours from the time we left it with plenty of daylight left, following the same route on the way out as the approach in. And I hiked out with a sprained ankle. I sprained it at the base of the climb looking up at the first pitch and not paying attention to the trail! Ugh... Still managed to lead pitches 2, 5, 6 & 7. My foot started to really swell up badly on the rappel. Hobbling out was the hardest part of the day for me. The pitch 7 crux is short, but the rest of the pitch is extremely sustained .10+ climbing. Get ready for the pump! The pitches are all pretty short, and go quickly as long as you don't dog up them. The hanging belays sucked on the rap. We used a single 70m and just made the before mentioned rap with very little rope to spare. I would take twins next time I do this just to shorten the number of rappels. Or a 60m with a tag line. May 10, 2013

Phil Esra

[Hide Comment] I guess the fist crack bulge is the tech crux of p5, but it's not an 11c move--it's just a steep enduro pitch. I fell a few bolts higher, as did the leader behind me. P2 is the highlight in my opinion, and the p2 crux may be the hardest move on the route. A little reachy. Gear wise it all depends on how you feel about running out easy face climbing on "pretty good" sandstone edges and plates. #.3-#2 C4's and 3-4 med to large nuts is conservative. If you bring a #2 it is worth taking with you on p4 before the first bolt--after that it's all bolts, plus one optional medium nut near the top of p5. There's a fixed red offset nut here as of 1/18/14. Jan 21, 2014

DCSwish23 Climbmore, USA

[Hide Comment] HELP! I know this is a long shot, but I lost a yellow Millet Jacket on 2/25. If anyone found it PLEASE let me know. Good will and beer can come your way. As for the route, I thought the p5 crux was way harder than the p2 crux, but maybe that's because I'm a stronger sport climber. I thought P2 was pretty easy. Most of the climb in general I thought was fairly easy climbing with occasional hard moves. I thought the rest of P5 was pretty easy, though it did have one techy spot after the fist (or crimp) move at the beginning of it. I would highly suggest a super light rack. Most of the gear sections are easy and can just be run out. Mar 4, 2014

Matt Callender Pasadena CA

[Hide Comment] 1) Hey DCSwish, I found your jacket! I sent you a message on here. 2) I'll go ahead and just echo DCSwish's comments (above) on the route. His assessment of pitch difficulty and required rack are spot on. An excellent route for sure!! Mar 18, 2014

Taylor Spiegelberg WY

[Hide Comment] Levitation 29 is the best long route I have ever done! -We did the short slab approach heading up them right after the wash split. Wasn't too bad on the way up but we went down some easier slabs near the massive trees. -Pitch 5 is burly, the crimps after the crux are sustained! -Dont underestimate Pitch 7, the climbing is super different than the rest of the route. -Pitch 2 is great, super fun moves! -Go do it!! Apr 2, 2014

Kevin Dahlstrom Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] I added some new beta for the "fast approach" to the Eagle Wall page. This approach is much faster and less strenuous - save your energy for the route! It took me 90 minutes from the car to the base of L29 and I wasn't pushing it. May 22, 2015

Will Wright Fayetteville, NC   5.11b

[Hide Comment] You can rap pitches 7,6, and 5 with two 70 m ropes. Knot the ends and stay to your right. Dec 4, 2015

Gary Owen

[Hide Comment] Climbed this last week and wanted to comment on the approaches. All 3 Handren options are very evident. The first looked like easy climbing (but still climbing) to slabs, so we walked on. We hiked up the 2nd Handren option to drop some gear, and I was terrified. The slabs are very exposed and a no fall zone. Sticky approach shoes recommended! I was more than relieved when a couple at the base showed us the 3rd, "long and slow" option for our ascent the next day. YMMV. Maybe you feel comfortable traversing exposed, exfoliating slabs high above a valley or even climbing up the "fast approach," but I could not recommend those in good faith. Hiking to the 2 GIANT trees is the only option I would take & recommend. Mar 23, 2016

Dan Ressler Silver Spring, MD

[Hide Comment] Long winded trip report here. bailureblog.blogspot.com/20… Apr 22, 2016

almostrad BLC

[Hide Comment] Really fun route, I just wish it wasn't so littered with bolts. You can literally Z-Clip on this thing. With that said, the climbing is so varied it feels like 3 routes in one. No small wires needed IMO. For people climbing at the grade, a light rack down to .3 should be plenty. May 3, 2016

Derek Field Nevada   5.11

[Hide Comment] Graceful, challenging movements on a highly improbable line. The rock is so good, it feels like granite on the lower pitches. But why so many bolts?? I don't understand how it was decided to install bolts literally right next to perfect cracks. IMO this "manufactured" aspect automatically erases the route's candidacy for best climb in the world, or RR for that matter, or whatever the hype is. P1: This one caught me off guard. Tricky and tenuous with plenty of spice. Careful clipping the first bolt, its pretty high off the deck with no gear below. (5.10+) P2: Amazing!! You won't believe the roof pull until you're right there underneath it, underclinging on hero jugs. The excitement factor is somewhat stifled by excessive bolts, but this allows leaders who aren't solid at the grade to have at 'er. (5.11-) P3: Steep face climbing on perfect flakes. Protects very well throughout; not even close to R-rated. (5.8) P4: Cruxy bolted face off the belay followed by a cruiser crack. (5.9) P5: Pulling the initial bulge on a single fist jam is the most challenging move on the entire route, especially if you're running out of energy. Above this, the climbing remains technical and sustained at the 5.11- grade, protected by a bolt ladder. (5.11) P6: Continued techy climbing. Not quite as difficult as the previous pitch, but no gimme either. (5.10+) P7: A transition into sandier rock gives this pitch a unique character. I think I counted a whopping 16 bolts on this pitch. Better hope you've got lots of energy left in the tank for the pumpy upper half! (5.10+) P8: Don't skip out on this pitch! It's a nice dose of high-exposure face climbing. Crux is the sporty mantle right off the belay, and then it eases off considerably. (5.10-) P9: Continues easing off toward the summit. (5.7) Rappel: Can be done with a single 70m rope if you attach a pull-cord for the P4 rap. Nov 14, 2016

Where's Walden   5.11c

[Hide Comment] We arrived at the route at 12:30 on a Saturday expecting to jump on P1 with other parties up high. Instead there were 10 people on pitch 2-4. Be warned. This route seems to draw a lot of 5.9-5.10 leaders, and it turns into an awful traffic jam. Don't get on this route unless you can climb 5.11 and have your multipitch skills dialed! Nov 27, 2016

Christian Mason Westminster CO   5.11c

[Hide Comment] The route deserves the hype it gets. I think every pitch (of the 6 we did) would've been 3 or 4 stars as a stand alone crag at most crags. If you want to be first in line (Which I'd highly suggest) I'd park outside the loop, and walk the extra mile rather than wait for the gate to open. We were in line when the gate opened and did the approach in just over 2 hours, and still had 2 groups of 3 in front of us. It's a trade route on a holiday though. If you expect solitude I'd suggest climbing elsewhere. Also see the approach beta described in the section for Eagle Wall. And yes, I'd call this III or III+ Nov 29, 2016

David Bruneau St. John

[Hide Comment] For a lightweight day on Lev. 29 (up to the top of P9): We found that 3 cams (.4, .5 and.75 X4) plus a set of DMM offset nuts was an adequate rack. We are by no means bold climbers and nearing our limits on the crux pitches. We didn't place any gear above P4 either, though off the belay on P5 it may be nice to have a .4 or .5 cam. 16 draws seemed to work with only p6 and 7 linked (backcleaning when convenient). Also we brought a slightly shortened 70m and made the P4 rap with a 10m cordalette as a pullcord and a biner block. Nov 29, 2016

Wilson Rougier Chicago, IL

[Hide Comment] Can this route be done completely without pro, or is it imperative that you bring nuts/cams? Mar 28, 2017

Aaron Glasenapp Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] RE: Climbing levitation without pro. I can only speak for the first 5 pitches, which we did last week, but from reading other comments, I gather that P6-9 are all thoroughly bolted. I think P1-5 could be done without gear by a very competent, cool headed 5.11 leader. Definitely would be at least an R rating though. P1: 4(ish) bolts for ~100 feet. Some 5.10 moves above bolts. PG-13 (maybe R). P2: An awkward move off the belay , then maybe a 20 foot runout, then fully bolted to the next anchor. PG-13. P3: ~100+ feet of 5.8 with 2 bolts. A no-fall lead if you're only using the bolts, but the harder moves are near the bolts. R P4: 20 foot runout start, then pretty well bolted face climbing, then another runout crack to the top. PG-13 P5: Bolts galore (except the first 15 feet). IMO, it would not be as fun if you treated it as a sport route. Might at well bring a small rack. We took a single rack to a #3 camelot and definitely had enough. You could slim it down depending on how comfortable you are on 5.8 - 5.10. The #3 was nice, but not mandatory. Mar 29, 2017

Mike Brumbaugh

[Hide Comment] No problem rapping P4 (and everything else) with a 70m. No need for a pull cord or extended belay device. Take 5 cams (.3-#1 camalot) and 15 draws and have fun. Yes, the approach and descent stinks but it is what it is. At least the packs are light. Great route Mar 30, 2017

Jeremy K Evergreen, CO

[Hide Comment] Great route - p1, 2, and 5 stood out with really fun movement. It felt like grade III to us, definitely not V. We parked just outside the loop exit, used the modified wily climber beta, and descended the middle guidebook route (bit of 4th class). 9h c2c. If I did it again I would rap after p6, the rock on p7 turns to junk. .3-2 with four DMM alloy offsets was plenty of pro, 70m fine for the raps. Apr 12, 2017

Mei pronounced as May Bay Area, but not in SF   5.11

[Hide Comment] If you want a little bit of everything kind of climbing, go for Pitch 7. I didn't find the rock junky or crumbly. I like it exactly because it is so different from the earlier pitches. And it actually felt surprisingly hard after the earlier pitches of harder grades, but that might be because I linked P6 with it and was feeling the off balance pull by the rope drag. The insecure feeling on this pitch is pretty exciting, but the bolts are abundant. FYI: as of today (11/7/2017), the bolt on P5 just after you turn the small roof (fist jam) can be completely pulled out by hand easily. Don't worry; we inserted it back in. No biggie really because you are at an easy stance already for the clip and next bolt is not far. Nov 7, 2017

RayTay Taylor Big Sky, MT

[Hide Comment] *would love to go back for this one, my climbing partner was linking p1&2 And didn’t place gear between the anchor of 1 and the first bolt on the 2nd pitch, after slipping he took a nasty little fall and we bailed leaving a nut, a draw and an alpine draw, would be super rad to get some gear back if possible! Cheers to the climbing party that helped me get him and our gear out. Dec 5, 2017

Tane Owens Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Some beta on the last two pitches and the walk-off through Oak Creek. Pitch 8: The 5.9+ version of p7. Sandy white rock with a some balancy reaches. Not great climbing, but not terribly difficult. Bolted anchor. ~8 bolts Pitch 9: Actually kinda fun. 5.9- with better rock quality than the last two pitches. 10 bolts, ~150' if you link this into the last bit of 5.5 to a nice landing near a tree and bolted anchor. (only 90' if you split these two pitches up). Decent: Continue up and left through a short ascending gully to a small cairn (a little difficult to see from down low). Follow multiple cairns across a large slab until you can circle North around some big sandstone cliffs (George Washington). From here the trail is straightforward, fun, and the sights are beautiful all the way down some slab to the Oak Creek wash. Allow 2-3 hrs to get back to the Oak Creek parking area from the summit of Levitation. Dec 5, 2017

Natalie N Bishop, CA

[Hide Comment] Attempted the route, but got held back by the first party who bailed after not being able to send pitch 5. I agree with Raddam6's comment warning against people getting on the route without being competent 5.11 climbers with decent multipitch skills; no party got to the top that day because of the first party. With that said, if I were to do it again I would second Christian Mason's beta to start the hike in well before the gate opens; park outside the park and hike in. Not so much as to give you more time to do the climb, but just to ensure you're the first party. We only got to finish pitch 5 before it was our turnaround time. Pitch 2 had the best climbing in my opinion. I'm 5'2 and didn't find it reachy, but definitely used a combination of my sport and trad climbing moves to make it so. One 70m rope works just fine for rapping. We had to do a little work for the Pitch 4 rappel, but nothing too crazy. Oh and it can get real toasty up there baking in the sun all day. Remember to bring enough water for the hike+time spent roasting on the wall as well as some sunscreen! Jan 2, 2018

Izzy Nawfal Redondo Beach, CA

[Hide Comment] +1 to Natalie & Raddam's comments. We had a similar issue with a member of the party ahead hangdogging the entire climb. They were the first party (barely), but it's inconsiderate. Please be comfortable on 5.11 terrain and placing gear before hopping on this. Feb 26, 2018

Aaron covington San Diego, ca

[Hide Comment] approached the easy long way in 2 1/2 hrs from the rd. long....... Route was fun but I wouldn't go as far as saying the best route in redrock. It is fun, and was nice not seeing a sole out there other than another party we knew! 70 meter looks us up and down. could've linked almost every pitch if you have a ton of draws with you. Mar 6, 2018

Jason Albino Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] If you're checking the weather before heading out here, probably the ideal situation is high 50s with near-zero wind, or low/mid 60s with a little wind. We expected to be warm in the full sun on a day with a high of 54, but were rather uncomfortable with some 15-20mph wind gusts blasting us on all the hanging belays and during the balancy cruxes. It really would be a much better experience on a near-zero wind day. Comfy hooded windbreaker definitely recommended if there's any wind predicted. If it's a coldish day, I highly recommend taking the time to throughly warm up on the ground with some dynamic stretches, etc. lest the chill contribute to flash pumping early on the route (as definitely happened to us) Regarding the climb itself, my partner and I both agreed that the individual cruxes were easier than we expected, but the sustained nature of the climbing was harder than we expected. With the exception of pitch 3, it stays on you the whole time with very few rest stances and delicate climbing. We placed gear maybe 10 or 12 total times on the whole climb (across 4 or 5 of first 7 pitches), so while the gear is definitely helpful, the climb feels like a "big boy" sport climb vaguely reminiscent of the harder lines in El Potrero Chico, such as El Sendero Diablo. We started rapping at 3pm-ish from the top of pitch 7, and made it back to the car with plenty of daylight to spare on a late March day. While the remaining pitches looked pretty fun, I'm glad we did it this way vs. push the daylight a bit, as the sustained climbing pretty much ends at pitch 7. Mar 18, 2018

Mark Straub Fort Collins, CO

[Hide Comment] This is a fun route that definitely changes character after the 6th pitch, but my partner and I found every pitch to be enjoyable. The first 6 pitches are mostly on desert varnish, while the last 3 are on softer sandstone reminiscent of the Sandstone Quarry in the loop. If you intend to climb this route, be seriously careful around that large hanging fang on the 2nd pitch roof. The fang is in a position that makes it tempting to stem onto, but it sounds very hollow. If the fang were to fall, it could easily take out your belayer and/or parties below- best to avoid using it entirely. Apr 2, 2018

wakaranai Mount Vernon, WA

[Hide Comment] Loose block on crux pitch took me by surprise. Luckily it didnt hit my wife or party below. More of this block will sluff off so take care, it wasnt super obvious to me especially being on such a classic route. Even with that less than stellar section Levitation was one of the most enjoyable rock climbs Ive done. Our 70m Elderid reached the long rap no problem. The 7th pitch is for sure worth doing! Apr 7, 2018

Simon Mai

[Hide Comment] Re rock fall at pitch 5 hand jam crux: Ha, we were the party below! I went up after, don't think it affected the grade (but still a very steep for its grade). Also Brandon, we found Aaron and Sam, all safe and found! Nice meeting you guys! Apr 9, 2018

wakaranai Mount Vernon, WA

[Hide Comment] Glad to hear! I think next time we'll go to the top and experience the walk off. Hope you guys enjoyed the rest of your trip, we're baxk in rainy WA now :( Apr 10, 2018

Hans El Grandote

[Hide Comment] My partner and I swung leads on this in early April. It lived up to the hype. We found the climbing consistently excellent. The first two pitches really stood out in terms of rock quality (I wish I had linked them), and the fifth through seventh for their position and sustained nature. As others have noted, the final two pitches to the top change in character substantially and are interesting and fun in their own unique right. We started at 5:45 from the pullout on 159. We took the long approach and, with two breaks totaling 30 minutes, arrived at the base after 2.5 hours. We were not pushing the pace. We topped out after about 5 hours of climbing, took a lunch and nap on the summit, and walked off in 2.5 hours, really enjoying the well-marked and scenic descent. It took about 12 hours car to car without ever rushing. Other notes: Pitch one should not be underestimated; I found it the most thought provoking on the route. The crux favors those with crack climbing inclinations and big hands. I climb 10+ trad and 12- sport and was very comfortable on every pitch—if you’re solid leading the grade on bolts, don’t be intimidated (to be honest, we were before we started climbing). A 70m rope should work to rappel (as others note), as our Bluewater bicolor 70m was never more than half out at the end of a standard pitch. The route is certainly well bolted, but wasn’t as bad as the inter webs made me expect. We placed no trad gear on the last two pitches and felt well protected, but couldn't have imagined climbing pitches one through four without our single rack of nuts and .4-2 BD cams. Highs in Vegas were 88 the day we climbed, there was no cloud cover after mid-morning, and we still ended up climbing the last few pitches in light jackets. Go do it. Apr 16, 2018

Justin Mulvey Irvine, CA

[Hide Comment] I brought a single rack .3-2 and placed one cam the entire climb. If I do it again I would only bring a rack of nuts. Jul 30, 2018

Francois Cote Fredericton, NB

[Hide Comment] Can anyone tell me if there is a stream nearby? I am going down in November and was hoping to camp/bivy at the base and spend 2 days on the cliff, one day for Levitation 29 and one day for Eagle Dance. Just wanting to know if I need to carry in all my water or not. Sep 21, 2018

slim   5.11a

[Hide Comment] i don't remember there being any water at all. there is a nice bivy ledge right at the base of L29 though. Sep 21, 2018

peter k

[Hide Comment] ten star line! took us 11hrs car to car. onsight/free every pitch. (stoked) hardest single pitch i felt was actually pitch 7 - a super exhausting relentless series of 10d balancey and awkward laybacking stemming moves with no real relief on already fatigued feet. the rock quality is poor but nothing broke and there are oodles of bolts (which are quite exhausting to clip but offer great moral support). the crux pitch was actually pretty straight forward. the single hardest move of the route was the crux of pitch 2. (described as juggy, which it is, untill it isnt breifly). single light rack of cams to BD no1. 18-20 draws! (trust me on this, you'll want to link 3-4 and 5-6 if you have a 70m rope) bring wires(nuts) ideally offsets. rappels are good on a 70m. would absolutely hate to do this descent in the dark luckily we just made it without any headtorch use. insanely good climbing. super good protection. yes its over bolted.... but who cares, just climb it and enjoy the luxury! 5 stars outta 3! Nov 1, 2018

Tristan Bradford Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Bring: 70m rope (makes ALL raps), a .3 .4 .5 and a #2 and NO nuts. Link the pitches by climbing through slow parties instead of waiting in line. Back clean draws or skip bolts, especially on the 11c pitch. Being on TR clipping bolts above your head is not necessary. Did the route in three hours linking by pairs. Nov 19, 2018

Sam Latone Chattanooga, TN

[Hide Comment] For parties considering topping out and walking off... We climbed Lev for the first time 3/16/19 and we’re stoked on the idea of topping out the feature and walking off. We took our time on the approach (2.5 hr) and sumitted the wall in 8hr. The route was excellent and dry as a bone...the descent however, was not. The approach to Lev and climbing the route was trivial compared to the severity of the walk off descent. Until the drainages dry out be prepared to descend hours of wet glassy slab, and navigate around deep pools. Be prepared to rap off a tree at an impasse, when the trail forces you to down climb a fourth class gully that is now a waterfall. The tree is a sturdy pine...with no rap anchor but the rope pulls fine if you rap it around a crotch a few feet up the tree. Your ropes will get soaked. Also, watch out for patches of ice on the wet slab. I was downclimbing a 10 ft fourth class section, when I stepped on what I thought was just a wet rock(everything is a wet rock) and it turned out to be ice. I fell a body length in to a boulder filled pool, but amazingly was uninjured. A compent party with mountain good sense may enjoy this adventure but next time we will rap the route. Getting from the top of Lev to your car in less than 5 hours, in the current conditions, would border on virtuosity. Climb safe, have fun! Mar 16, 2019

Thomas Gilmore Where the climate suits my…   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] 3/25/19: The belay at the top of pitch 8 is missing a bolt. it was there on Saturday but not today. So one loose Asca rap bolt and one loose urioste bolt. If planning to rap, have a plan till this gets fixed... Mar 25, 2019

Rus L

[Hide Comment] - One 70m does the raps. We rapped P4 with about a meter to spare. - We brought singles from .5-#3 that we did not really need. I would bring draws and nuts only next time. - The approach and descent are not to be underestimated. May 10, 2019

MisterCattell Cattell Modesto, Ca

[Hide Comment] Linking 5/6 made it felt like .11c, to me. I was quite pumped, and my leg was shaking worse than an unbalanced washing machine. Also running out of quick draws and having to cannibalize spare biners from other gear at the last bolt definitely made it exciting. If you are planning on linking both pitches, either back-clean, bring 19 bolts, or be a lot bolder than I was climbing yesterday and skip bolts. No need to crux out trying to reach a high clip with a bolt at your waist (like I was). Great route! Also, can confirm rapping p4 with a single 70. Obviously, watch your ends (like you ALWAYS do, right?), and knots in your ends are also advised, as always. Have fun! May 28, 2019

Victor Acevedo Upland, CA

[Hide Comment] I’m all for placing bolts when there’s no where to place protection when super run out, but I found this route to be overbolted. Theres at least 2 very long cracks that could have been easily protected with gear but instead the fun and creativity in it we’re ruined IMO by placing bolts every 3 feet the whole way up. I personally found epinephrine, a much less difficult climb, to be way more fun and creative than this one. Would have to strongly disagree with the comment made that this is “the BEST climb in red rocks”. I would say, it was just ok. Oct 28, 2019

Shane Brown

[Hide Comment] Well geeze Victor, i guess you should travel back in the time about 40 years and stop some of the most prolific and capable climbers of the era from putting up this pile in a manner Victor from Upland dislikes. Oct 28, 2019

Ethan Anderson Salt Lake City, UT

[Hide Comment] I climbed this route on 1/13/20 and walked off the top. Assuming weather conditions are good I think it is worth it to top out. The views are spectacular and there are enough cairns to make the trail easy to follow back down to the river wash. It took us about 3 hours to make it from the top to the Oak Creek parking lot. Jan 18, 2020

Ben Pontecorvo Eugene, OR

[Hide Comment] All I have to say is the approach is annoying but not hard, the climb is fantastic, and the hanging belay atop p5 sucks, wish i had the gas to link thru 6. Jan 28, 2020

Jake P Costa Mesa

[Hide Comment] Just some descent beta. Done this route twice and first time descent was no big deal in daylight, second time descent in the dark and messed up a couple of times dropping off ridge too early. Plenty of cairns in the false drainages make you think you're on the right track until you get cliffed out. Stay on the ridge all the way to the saddle. A painful lesson. Mar 2, 2020

Moshe Shtilman Portland Oregon

[Hide Comment] The hardest part is the approch:) I think the route is very secure and thats great, if you looking for a bit more trad style climb i will recommand on double rack and 6 quick draws, that what ill do next time so let me know if you did it this way:) Apr 19, 2020

John Long Venice

[Hide Comment] Crazy to think Lynn, Joanne and I did the FFA on this route 42 years ago. It's still semi-unique in that it has the approach, wilderness feel and adventure of a long trad route, but is completely stitched with bolts thanks to George Urioste's big labor on the First Ascent. We just slogged in there and did it - it was totally set up to free climb. It is that rare route that gives sport climbers a big multi-pitch route to do in an out-back location but glossing through the comments, seems like not everyone digs the work required for the send. But to me, the hike and bum fuck location add to the appeal. We didn't know at the time it would be known as the first big multi-pitch sport climb in the world. Don't know if that's strictly true but maybe - the FFA was in 1978. Did it multiple times over the years and it's cleaned up nicely and the new bolts are bomber. Jun 28, 2020

Roddy McCalley Joshua Tree, CA   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Maybe we were just tired from climbing Eagle Dance the previous day, but I think this is all of 5.11c. Also, Matt Robertson says 'just say no to slash grades'. The aid climbing is trivial with a double-length sling for a foot loop and a key-lock carabiner or quickdraw for a fifi hook. We had trouble imagining how you would need aiders for this short, tightly-bolted pitch. The descent is fun and scenic, one of the highlights of the route. It would be a shame (and more work) to rappel. I got lost the first time I climbed Levitation, back in 2008, because oddly the guidebook says 'walk north...' but I now know that you start out by walking left from the top of the route, which is more west than north. After going left and down into a rocky bowl, you scramble up a gully to the ridgeline and walk around the back of the square tower, following a nice cairned trail to a beautiful ramp/groove feature that leads to the canyon bottom. Jan 25, 2021

Roddy McCalley Joshua Tree, CA   5.11c

[Hide Comment] oh, and--we climbed it on a short day (January 5) so we left the car about 5am, started climbing about 8:30am, topped out about 2:30pm and were back at the car by 5:30 or so, didn't quite need headlamps. The hike up Oak Creek Canyon is beautiful, reason enough to climb on Eagle Wall! It's been a dry winter so the descent was dry, but if there's been a lot of recent precipitation that might be a good reason to plan on rappelling. Although, the only part of the descent that doesn't get a lot of sun is the stretch of less than 100m when you are behind the blocky tower on the ridgeline. Otherwise it's all west- or south-facing. Such a cool descent, very quick and fun! Jan 25, 2021

Greg Hughes   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Beautiful climb. Pitch 2, 5 and 7 are solid 5.11. Pitch 7 has 15 bolts. You can easily rap from pitch 7 with a single 70 meter rope. Lots of bolts but I happily clipped all of them! Dec 3, 2021

MauryB Boulder, CO   5.11+

[Hide Comment] For the walk off: just walk northwest back toward the large, square red tower on the ridgeline. Then follow the trail/cairns. Fwiw it took less than three hours and we beat a party who was rapping from the 7th pitch just behind us. (Edit to add: haha, Mike, well met) We carried five cams, and placed none. Approaching via Solar Slab also was less than 3 hours, and saves you from any wash scrambling/schwacking on the way in replaced with delightful scrambling. Jan 30, 2022

Mike Rowley Traveling   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Can confirm the "Wiley Climber" approach to be significantly faster than either of the others. Great climbing. Can def be rapped from the top of P7 with a 70M... and it would be faster than Maury's walk off had we not enjoyed a picnic after rapping lol. Jan 31, 2022

Bryan Bornholdt Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Just a heads up: the rap slings on the old tree at the top of Levitation 29 are now gone. Mar 15, 2022

Timo G Keene, NH

[Hide Comment] Approach: follow the trail to the wall in about 2 hours. Rack: 16 draws and a pink tricam Route: Link 1&2, 3&4, 6&7. Rap from p7 The Nose is way better, c’mon Carolyn Nov 10, 2022

Kyle Pereira California

[Hide Comment] Make sure to get there early and start early!! the other routes around it all rap on this so it will take longer than expected. Had to rap early due to sunlight. Light rack needed, you may want a little more if planning to link pitches. Also if linking you should def back clean your clips if you can. The shorter approach (2 hours) was not that bad, and we took the longer way (3 hours with a poop included) out in the dark Nov 16, 2022

Kyle Pereira California

[Hide Comment] Make sure to get there early and start early!! the other routes around it all rap on this so it will take longer than expected. Had to rap early due to sunlight. Light rack needed, you may want a little more if planning to link pitches. Also if linking you should def back clean your clips if you can. The shorter approach (2 hours) was not that bad, and we took the longer way (3 hours with a poop included) out in the dark. Follow Cairns they are prevalent. Feb 7, 2023

Nick Patilsen Seattle, WA

[Hide Comment] Great route! A nice way to push yourself into harder terrain since the cruxes of each pitch are so generously bolted. If doing this in the winter when routes that get sun are in demand, be prepared to wait in line. We did this on a Thursday in February and were the 4th party on the route despite entering the scenic loop as soon as it opened. The 4th class approach took us about 2 hours at a moderate pace having never been to Eagle Wall before. Feb 17, 2023

Austin Garrett   5.11b/c

[Hide Comment] Climbed this about a week ago in some spectacular weather. Brought a single rack to a #2 and could have comfortably done with less. Maybe I was just tired by the end of the climb but I felt more comfy of the pitch 5 11c crux than the pitch 7 11a. Both very fun. Very well protected safe route. Have fun out there! Mar 31, 2024

Selena Pang Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Mark Hudon and I had the wall to ourselves in beautiful conditions yesterday. 5/2/2024. The description of pitch 7 here is incorrect; P7 goes at 5.11a and requires 17 draws... this would not be a good pitch to skip bolts, the climbing is delicate on soft rock. Handren's guidebook has the correct route description (though a lot of his pitch lengths are off): "A wild, sustained pitch on soft, white rock. Make a series of delicate face moves up into a scoop. Once in the scoop, move right to a steep, rounded crack which is followed to an anchor." Admins please update this information. May 3, 2024

Michael Crowder Gainesville, GA

[Hide Comment] Lot of debate about the bolts which is weighted each way by "sport versus trad" debate. Have climbed it twice and personally would prefer less bolts but I was not the person who searched it out and did the FA. Compared to much Red Rocks climbing discounting Calico Hills it's not quite done to Red Rocks normal standards but nobody says you have to clip the bolts. Personally while a few grades off if put up in the style of The Wasteland in Chochise Stronghold it would please me pink but then sport climbers would be totally shut down. Even clipping the bolts there are some stunning moves with the feel of exposure even moving off a bolt. I still rate it five stars with the extra star added for approach and descent. To do the entire route considering hike in, stabbing up to base of P1 then getting off last pitch and back to car makes it a route everyone has to be willing to put in some work. If want run out can find all you want in in Black Velvet Canyon or on the Rainbow Wall so am not going to take of points for the bolts though I dumped some of my gear first time instead of clipping just because carried too much rack and wanted to lighten my load. Second time carried 1/2 the gear and still more than required of first as never know when a bolt could have gone manky in desert sandstone and regret going in overly light on gear. Doubt I will do the route again (old and long approaches to familiar climbs are not my bag) but recommend anyone visiting Red Rocks put this on their list. Never shared the route with another party and assume that could be a detraction but after the approach would just pray I got there first instead of climbing behind another party. Nov 2, 2024

Mauri D

[Hide Comment] We used an 80m rope, .1 z4-#1 C4, smaller stoppers up to #8BD/#5DMM size and 16 draws with back cleaning. We brought more cams and stoppers but did not use them. We thought this climbed really well with the pitches as described, my only recommendation for linking is to combine 5/6 and avoid the hanging stance at the top of the crux pitch. Otherwise I don't think it would have been better/faster to link pitches. I can see how some people could find pitch 7 hard if they're tired from the climbing and not eating to that point, but I definitely found pitch 5 quite a bit harder than 7. Dec 2, 2024