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Lightning Bolt Cracks
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 417
votes
Routes in North Six Shooter Peak
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Lightning Bolt Cracks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Liquid Sky T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Perfect Hands All the Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C2 R |
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Pratt's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Shadows Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Southeast Chimney Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 PG13 |
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Talk Dusty To Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, Grade III |
| FA: | Ed Webster, Pete Williams 1979 |
| Page Views: | 59,764 total · 215/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Mar 28, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
What an incredible route!! Lightning Bolt Cracks is one of the undisputed must-do ultra-classic desert towers and would be worth doing for the summit alone even if the climbing was total crap. The position rivals the final pitch of the Naked Edge.
The route can be done in 3 or 4 pitches (or even 2, for some)--many different belays are possible.
P1-start on the right side of the east face in the beautiful splitter crack (fingers to chimney). The left crack is 5.11+ and also very pretty. I thought the real crux of this pitch was not at the beginning (rated 5.11a), but the overhanging, somewhat difficult to protect moves into the awkward leaning slot (rated variously 5.9 or 5.10) above. There is a questionable small wire left of the slot if you don't have a big cam.
One can belay directly above the slot (big cam, chockstone) or traverse left at 5.9+ and belay in a V-slot with mediocre rock but a better stance.
P2-two options-thin 5.11 fingers widening to splitter off-hands over a roof on the right, or 5.9 flared chimney widening to off-fists over a roof on the left. I took the left, which is rated 5.10, although fairly burly by Creek 5.10 standards. You can also start up the left slot and sneakily traverse right to the splitter off-hands which apparently is the easiest way to do the pitch.
Belay above the roof if desired (medium-large friends and/or more fixed delectables), or it is better to continue up and left (5.10-) in the acute corner to a spectacular belay just under the bombay chimney/roof.
P3-An unnerving spectacle: turn the huge roof (amazingly, only 5.10) into good hand jams; follow the cracks through progressively worse rock to the base of the final chimney. Optional belay here (small cams needed) or continue into the final squeeze chimney to the summit (rope drag shouldn't be an issue here as you'll be inching your way up anyway). Enjoy one of the best views of your life, then rappel.
Protection
Bring a double set of camming devices from tcus/small aliens to a number four friend. A number four camalot can be useful, and a number five camalot [edit: old size - so now, a number 6] helps in protecting the first pitch slot but plenty of people do the route without it.
The final squeeze chimney is secure if you can slip deep inside. I've heard that a number four big bro would fit here. Big people will find it easier to climb as an off-width on the outside, but that would be a damn scary way to lead it! There used to be a bolt but it has been pulled.
Plan on setting your own belay anchors or at least backing up the dubious fixed anchors that do exist. Bring lots of long runners.
Photos
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