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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X |
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Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Break on Through T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Long John Direct (Original Aid Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Next to Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Larry Dalke, Pat Ament, Wayne Goss, 1964 |
| Page Views: | 48,928 total · 167/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Start to the left of a large overhang and just right of a large, right-facing dihedral. Watch out for poison ivy near the start.
P1. Start up the easy ramp, and grovel up left through an awkward slot. Climb a thin slab with marginal small pro, traverse back right, and continue up a crack to a decent ledge (7).
P1 variation 1 (5.8). Start on Break on Through, 20' to the right. Climb the layback corner, go up a ramp, turn the overhanging corner on the left, and traverse left to the first belay on Long John Wall. Recommended.
P1 variation 2 (5.7). Start on Ignominity, 20' to the left. Climb a right-facing corner, pass a bulge, and traverse right to the first belay on Long John Wall.
P2. Ascend the great finger crack (8) to a small roof; continue up to a large ledge, traverse left 15', and belay below a wide slot.
P3. Climb the slot, then continue up the brilliant dihedral to the crux--a finger/hand crack in a corner with excellent stemming. Belay on another large ledge by a tree.
P4. Finish the short and easy (5) dihedral to the summit, or if you're in a hurry, rap off a tree 10' to the left.
P4 variation (5.8). Traverse right about 20' and climb up a corner with some old pins. Then move right, and climb past a wide crack to the top.
You can do both P4 variations if you have the time, since the descent takes you back to the starting ledge for this pitch.
Descent: downclimb a gully to the north of the finish back to the same belay ledge for P3. Do 2 rappels from rings (the tree anchors have been removed) with a 60m rope down to a broken ledge, and then follow the ledge uphill to the trail. Angle the second rappel to the left and watch the ends of the rope. Be VERY careful if you only have a 50m rope, but you can make it with some downclimbing.
P1. Start up the easy ramp, and grovel up left through an awkward slot. Climb a thin slab with marginal small pro, traverse back right, and continue up a crack to a decent ledge (7).
P1 variation 1 (5.8). Start on Break on Through, 20' to the right. Climb the layback corner, go up a ramp, turn the overhanging corner on the left, and traverse left to the first belay on Long John Wall. Recommended.
P1 variation 2 (5.7). Start on Ignominity, 20' to the left. Climb a right-facing corner, pass a bulge, and traverse right to the first belay on Long John Wall.
P2. Ascend the great finger crack (8) to a small roof; continue up to a large ledge, traverse left 15', and belay below a wide slot.
P3. Climb the slot, then continue up the brilliant dihedral to the crux--a finger/hand crack in a corner with excellent stemming. Belay on another large ledge by a tree.
P4. Finish the short and easy (5) dihedral to the summit, or if you're in a hurry, rap off a tree 10' to the left.
P4 variation (5.8). Traverse right about 20' and climb up a corner with some old pins. Then move right, and climb past a wide crack to the top.
You can do both P4 variations if you have the time, since the descent takes you back to the starting ledge for this pitch.
Descent: downclimb a gully to the north of the finish back to the same belay ledge for P3. Do 2 rappels from rings (the tree anchors have been removed) with a 60m rope down to a broken ledge, and then follow the ledge uphill to the trail. Angle the second rappel to the left and watch the ends of the rope. Be VERY careful if you only have a 50m rope, but you can make it with some downclimbing.
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