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> Thaiwand
Lord of the Thai's
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 53
votes
Routes in The Thaiwand
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20 Kilos of Steel S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Another Unnamed 6b S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Caveman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Circus Oz S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Equatorial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fit To Be Thai'd S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Getting to Know You S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Inaka (The Country) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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King and I (First Pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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King, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Live and Let Thai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lord of the Thai's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mala Mujer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Monkey Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Organ Grinder S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Out of Sticks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Primal Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sluggard Prince, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Solution 41 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Spicy Speck Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Taming the East S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed 5 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 6a+ S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unnamed 6b S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Sam Lightner, Greg Collum, Larissa Collum , and a host of helpers |
| Page Views: | 15,960 total · 72/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 20, 2006 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
This is the best climb on the best wall in Thailand, and I have had many a climber tell me it was the best route they ever did. Enjoy.
P1: Start just right of the cave rappels and go up 80 feet to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)
P2: Go up and through a bulge then some strenuous moves that put on a good pump. Work left to the left side of the large ledge. (5.11d)
P3: Go straight up from the belay to a bulge, then "brachiate" out it like a gibbon to wildly exposed finish. Fall off and you might need new shorts. (5.12a)
P4: The crux. First go up and through some hard bouldering moves, then traverse right to a steep headwall that is very pumpy. Finish at a stance. (5.12b)
From the stance, a few long moves take you up and left onto the arete, then left more to the cave and the rappels. (5.10d)
P1: Start just right of the cave rappels and go up 80 feet to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)
P2: Go up and through a bulge then some strenuous moves that put on a good pump. Work left to the left side of the large ledge. (5.11d)
P3: Go straight up from the belay to a bulge, then "brachiate" out it like a gibbon to wildly exposed finish. Fall off and you might need new shorts. (5.12a)
P4: The crux. First go up and through some hard bouldering moves, then traverse right to a steep headwall that is very pumpy. Finish at a stance. (5.12b)
From the stance, a few long moves take you up and left onto the arete, then left more to the cave and the rappels. (5.10d)
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