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Madrone Coves Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Madrone Coves

L › R R › L A › Z

	40 Year Old Swingers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Airbender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Backbender S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Earthbender S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Fondue or Fondon't S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hairbender S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Machu Picchu Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Moss Grande S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	My Neighbor Totoro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Retirement Plan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sky Bison S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Social Security S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Swampbender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Waterbender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	1,799 ft	548 m
GPS:	43.89267, -122.67924 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	12,054 total · 228/month
Shared By:	JD Merritt on Sep 21, 2020
Admins:	Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Private Logging Land: no access in high fire danger, don't drive past the gate. Details

Private land info on the sign at the gate (please see photo). Follow all rules on the sign to ensure future access.
When a red fire hazard sign is posted, access is temporarily not allowed.

If you encounter logging personnel be courteous and follow any instructions. Access is a privilege.

Don't block the gate. Park well away from the corner/intersection on west boundary road, or in the two spots just right of the gate. (please see photo). Stay out during active logging operations, gate is often left open during these times.

Description

The first walls you hit on the trail: all aspects and angles, in a pretty setting with good tree shade(they never managed to log this close to the rock), with routes from 20-85 feet long. Loads more potential. Not the best rock quality at Lookout but dilligent cleaning reveals some fun movement.

Getting There

The approach trail will bring you directly to the base of Retirement Plan, .10-

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Madrone Coves

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 28 ● Sky Bison Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 26 ● Retirement Plan Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 18 ● Social Security Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 32 ● Fondue or Fondon't Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 4 ● Waterbender Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 8 ● My Neighbor Totoro Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Machu Picchu Arete Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 11 ● Airbender Sport