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Elevation: 6,618 ft 2,017 m
GPS: 38.79918, -120.1354
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 396,634 total · 4,959/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Jun 27, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Warning Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Closure at Lover's Leap DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The main formation at the Leap is traditionally divided into these walls, from right/west/closest to the campground, to left/east/furthest:West Wall, Main Wall, Central Wall, and East Wall.

Getting There Suggest change

From the Pony Express signed trailhead at the parking lot, follow the wide, rocky trail uphill. See each wall or route for specific directions to the huge Lovers Leap.

Once at the top of a route, walk or scramble away from the cliff until you see a well used climber's trail. Follow it left (east) until it winds around and rejoins the Pony Express Trail that connects to the campground and parking lot. 

93 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Main Formation Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Formation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 919
● Bear's Reach
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1,340
● Corrugation Corner
Trad 3 pitches
Main Wall
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 683
● Haystack
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 91
● Fantasia
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 705
● The Line
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 195
● Scimitar
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 412
● Traveler Buttress
Trad 4 pitches
Main Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 203
● Psychedelic Tree
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 470
● Hospital Corner
Trad 2 pitches
W Wall
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
● Eeyore's Enigma
Trad 4 pitches
Main Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 133
● Tombstone Terror
Trad
Main Wall
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 105
● Power Lust
Sport
Main Wall
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 81
● East Corner
Trad 3 pitches
E Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 92
● Boot Hill
Sport
Main Wall
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
● Silly Willy Crack
Trad
Main Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Bear's Reach E Wall
 919
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Corrugation Corner Main Wall
 1,340
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
● Haystack E Wall
 683
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
● Fantasia E Wall
 91
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
● The Line E Wall
 705
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Scimitar E Wall
 195
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 3 pitches
● Traveler Buttress Main Wall
 412
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
● Psychedelic Tree E Wall
 203
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Hospital Corner W Wall
 470
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Eeyore's Enigma Main Wall
 33
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
● Tombstone Terror Main Wall
 133
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Power Lust Main Wall
 105
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
● East Corner E Wall
 81
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
● Boot Hill Main Wall
 92
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
● Silly Willy Crack Main Wall
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Main Formation »

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Photos

Overview of Bear's Reach showing route, belay stations, and multiple parties climbing
Overview of Bear's Reach showing route, belay s…
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