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Marie de Guillotine
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in The Bastille - N Face
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Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dalke Offwidth T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Madame Guillotine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Marie de Guillotine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Northcutt Guillotine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Wide Country Lite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 421 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Derrick W on Oct 1, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a great Eldo face climb: never easy; never THAT hard; but always interesting.
Start by following the first 30' of Werk Supp. When you step right to gain the splitter crack (place some gear here!), instead of heading straight up, venture diagonally up and right following a dark band of rock. Climb past a stance with some mediocre gear, then make a spooky move to reach the first of two bolts. Once at the second bolt, launch straight up the 11b second half of Madame de Guillotine, finishing at the second belay of The Bastille Crack.
A couple words of warning: the gear before the first bolt is not that great and is a bit spaced. Also, judicious use of very long runners is advised.
Photos
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