Mary Jane Dihedral
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Don McPherson, Ron Burgner & Jim Madsen |
Page Views: | 5,829 total · 39/month |
Shared By: | Jplotz on Sep 5, 2012 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
There are three independent pitches to MJD apart from Orbit.
P1: Climb straight up from the first pitch of Orbit from the nice flat ledge just after the Orbit chimney. Climb up through a small section of annoying vegetation over a pumpy little overlap to an uncomfortable hanging belay on two brand new bolts, added in 2015.
P2: Climb straight up the corner on fun laybacks and loose flakes. Reach a new-ish bolt out left. Clip this then make tenuous, unprotected slab moves left appx. 12 feet or so above the bolt to protection opportunities. Head back right. Climb an easier and fun overlap back to the corner to a one bolt anchor that can be backed up and equalized with a #3 and #1 camalot in a solid crack to the right.
P3: Climb straight left of the belay 15 feet of unprotected slab to a new(ish) bolt. Clip this and climb another 10 horizontal feet to a flake and protection opportunities. Climb to near the top of the flake. Climb back right to a large semi-detached flake. Mantel this and climb up to the top of the MJD corner and a small roof. Make excellent, well-protected moves over this roof to fun chickenhead climbing. Run the rope straight up through two more fun but dirty small roofs, about 55 meters to the comfy alcove belay shared with Orbit route.
A true adventure route for the 5.9 leader! The slab traverses will feel more like 5.10a. If you are frustrated waiting in line on Orbit, do not hesitate to jump on MJD as an excellent alternative. Just be sure you're comfortable with a wee bit of slab runout.
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