Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Max Barlerin
Page Views: 232 total · 194/month
Shared By: Maxito on Dec 15, 2024
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This 'floater' pitch sits in between more moderate terrain on the NW face of the Third Flatiron and ascends a striking black streak characterized by crisp edges and slopers.

P1. Scramble up a 5.6 corner to a pedestal belay, ~20m. Bring a singles rack, and set a gear belay.

P2. Climb up broken cracks towards a steep corner, do a boulder problem to a prominent tooth, and climb fun 12-ish terrain through a roof. Get a good rest, and execute another boulder problem through the black streak and on to easier terrain and an anchor with hooks. This is protected by 7 lead bolts (and a few cams for the start). It is roughly 13-?, ~20m.

P3. Continue up the easier slab to a big ledge. You can continue up the NW face via a small 5.8 crack the summit of the 3rd Flatiron. 

Location Suggest change

Start just left of the Western Skyline route. A good tactic is to warm up on the Western Skyline route, and at the last bolt, go hard left to reach the anchors of Misled Youth. From here, one can rap down to the pedestal belay and hang draws on the way down.

Protection Suggest change

7 draws (some extra slings), a singles rack 0.1-2 C4, a 60m rope works fine to work pitches and rappel off the 3rd Flatiron via the standard (single rope) descent.

Note: an 80m rope might get you down to the ground from the anchors atop P2, but I cannot confirm this at the moment.

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