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Elevation: 2,339 ft 713 m
GPS: 41.59325, 1.83782
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 137,352 total · 728/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jul 18, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Robert Hall, Jason Halladay, David Riley
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Description Suggest change

Perched fortress-like atop the surrounding wine country sits Spain's largest climbing area, and the spiritual cradle of Catalonian climbing. The magical blunted spires of Montserrat hide literally thousands of excellent routes, with a variety of length & commitment sure to intrigue climbers of all tastes & abilities. Located only 30 miles from the bustling metropolis of Barcelona, the Parc Natural de la Muntanya de Montserrat that contains the climbing area is a popular destination for locals & tourists alike. The main attraction for tourists is the aesthetic Benedictine Monastery located among the cliffs on the East end of the park, which offers access to many of the more popular climbs.

A funicular provides access to the Southeast portion of the park, reducing the daunting approach to a meager stroll. Beware there are two funiculars, one that goes up (St Joan), and one that goes down (Santa Cova). Be sure you are in the correct station before you buy your ticket.

There are a number of Refugis in the park that provide cheap accomodations for climbers. The Monastery also offers rooms and a campground.

Addition 11/1/19 - In addition to the general guidebooks of "Europe" there is a specific guidebook to the Sant Benet areas and a general guidebook of the trad climbs. The Trad book is in English and may be a help with descriptions of approaches even to the non-Spanish sport climber, the Sant Benet book is in Spanish, but the tools are so good that once at the base there’s hardly any need for translation.  There are photographs of these guidebooks (you'll have to click on "see more photograps"), as well as the great map. These are available in shops in and around Montserrat. R Hall Admin. 

The Rock Suggest change

Montserrat is composed of excellent cobblestone conglomerate, not unlike the rock found at El Rito, Castlewood Canyon, or Maple Canyon in the US. The primary difference is that these formations reach heights of over 1000 feet, offering a world-class multi-pitch climbing experience. Although the cliffs may appear chossy, the rock is generally very solid, and highly featured, with many protruding knobs and sinker pockets.



Routes range in difficulty from 3rd class scrambles & via ferratas to 5.14c. Lengths range from the ridiculously short 2-bolt power route, to multi-pitch adventures in excess of 10 pitches.

The vast majority of lines are bolt protected, but many of these are runout, and there are opportunities for intermediate natural gear placements. A small rack of nuts will prove useful on most lines. Helmets are a good idea here, and seem to be favored by the vast majority of local climbers. Although these routes see nearly constant traffic, pockets of loose rock remain.

First-time visitors will be drawn to the Gorros formations that tower above the Monastery. More accomplished climbers should not miss the imposing
'the half-dome of Montserrat', and its imposing East face. Countless high-quality single-pitch sport climbs are spread throughout the park.

When to Visit

Suggest change
Montserrat is a year-round crag, but like most "year-round" crags, spring and fall are best. Shade is at a premium in the warm summer months, and in the winter many of the most challenging multi-pitch lines will be too cold to enjoy. If you are here in the winter, the Gorros get morning sun and are bear-able on warmer winter days. Additionally, the south-facing slabs of
& other formations around
are relatively sheltered from the wind.

Beta

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http://climbinspain.com/area-overview/barcelona/ has a lot of areas, including some of Montserrat, included.

Getting There

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"The Loop Road" surrounds the cliffs of Montserrat & provides access to all of the climbs. There are multiple ways to reach this road, but for direct access to the Monastery area, take the A-2 out of Barcelona to the C-55. Take the C-55 to the small town of "Monistrol de Montserrat". Here get on the winding BP-1121, which joins the loop road a short distance North of the Monastery.

The parking situation at the Monastery can be troublesome, particularly on weekends. Arrive early or expect to waste a good bit of time looking for a space. There is a ~5 Euro fee if you are lucky enough to get a spot in the parking lot.

There is a train from Barcelona that will literally take you up the mountain to the monastery. We regretted renting a car, especially given how expensive all car related things are in Europe. Recommend the train, as it drops off at the monastery, and that is very very close to the hiker/ climber camping and where you begin many hikes to get to climbs.

Camping

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There is a camping available mere steps from the monastery, though it seems to be unadvertised. In order to find the campsite (run by a climber), just follow the large path that runs between the two funiculars uphill for about 5 minutes until you reach the camping on your left. it has a small office building and gate on the side of the path. It can't be missed. The campsite has showers, facilities to wash dishes, and even a small "kitchen" area with two tables and a fridge where camp stoves can be set up. Additionally, it is the best view imaginable. The only downside is that the monastery rings its bell tower several times per hour, rather loudly. Bring earplugs if you are anything other than the soundest of sleepers.

Approach

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Many routes will require a significant hike in, given how large Montserrat is. All but the easiest tourist paths are only maintained by foot traffic, and are covered with rocks from the conglomerate which have fallen out. Sturdy hiking shoes are a must on this approach if you don't want a turned ankle.

To access the main popular areas from the Monastery (Gorros, Sant Benat, plus the Normal Route on Cavall Bernat) one can take the Sant Joan Funicular for a fee.  It cuts down the 1700' vertical approach to mere minutes.  A nice option if you have bad knees or are making the approach on multiple days.

97 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Montserrat

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 6
● Via de l'Adriá
Sport 5 pitches
Gorros > 6. Gorro Frigi
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 16
● La Que Faltava
Sport 4 pitches
Gorros > 3. Magdalena Inferior
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
● Rantanplan
Sport 3 pitches
Gorros > 3. Magdalena Inferior
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 5
● Badalona
Trad 5 pitches
Gorros > 6. Gorro Frigi
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 7
● Via Normal
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Cavall Bernat
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
● Stromberg
Sport 5 pitches
Gorros > 6. Gorro Frigi
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
● Via del Carles
Sport 5 pitches
Gorros > 6. Gorro Frigi
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
● Pasvarosky
Sport
Gorros > 1. Pistatxo
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
● 98 Octanos
Sport 4 pitches
Gorros > 5. Magdalena Superior
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
● Boy-Roca
Sport 5 pitches
Saint Benet - E… > L’Elephant
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 34
● Punsola-Reniu
Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
Cavall Bernat
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Via de l'Adriá Gorros > 6. Gorro Frigi
 6
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport 5 pitches
● La Que Faltava Gorros > 3. Magdalena Inferior
 16
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 4 pitches
● Rantanplan Gorros > 3. Magdalena Inferior
 14
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 3 pitches
● Badalona Gorros > 6. Gorro Frigi
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 5 pitches
● Via Normal Cavall Bernat
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● Stromberg Gorros > 6. Gorro Frigi
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 5 pitches
● Via del Carles Gorros > 6. Gorro Frigi
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 5 pitches
● Pasvarosky Gorros > 1. Pistatxo
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● 98 Octanos Gorros > 5. Magdalena Superior
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
● Boy-Roca Saint Benet - E… > L’Elephant
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
● Punsola-Reniu Cavall Bernat
 34
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, Alpine 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Montserrat »

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Photos

Area de sant Benet
Area de sant Benet
 6
Looking for the best hold.
Looking for the best hold.
 8
Cordada al Lloro Montserrat
Cordada al Lloro Montserrat
 5
Aresta GAM del Bisbe (Frares)
Aresta GAM del Bisbe (Frares)
 4
Lotus route. About 100 mts to the right from Easy rider. Hard bolted route (6b+).<br> 800 feet.
Lotus route. About 100 mts to the right from Ea…
 2
catalonian conglomerate
catalonian conglomerate
 1
Montserrat
Montserrat
 1
...but before, we have climbed this route (6a+) with the friends you can see two shots before
...but before, we have climbed this route (6a+)…
 1
From the summit of the Frare (the highest summit of the region of "Frares" we have this view of the "Lloro"
From the summit of the Frare (the highest summi…
 1
Classical "Easy rider" route. 6a- In this shot, Thaïs in the second pitch (V+) of seven pitches. It goes app in the middle of the anterior photo
Classical "Easy rider" route. 6a- In this shot,…
 1
Montserrat: north face. Routes ranging from 300 to 900 feet. Trad or bolted. Slabs or crags...
Montserrat: north face. Routes ranging from 300…
 1
Looking down at the monastery from the Gorros
Looking down at the monastery from the Gorros
 1

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