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Nebula (lite) "Nebulite"
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 6
votes
Routes in Snow Creek Wall
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Afterburner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Edge of Space T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hyperspace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Iconoclast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mary Jane Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nebula (lite) "Nebulite" T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orbit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Psychopath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Remorse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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RPM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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RPM (2nd pitch early exit) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Silver Tongue, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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White Slabs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Yellow Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 7 pitches |
| FA: | Jeromy Markee, Jacob Leonard |
| Page Views: | 1,156 total · 68/month |
| Shared By: | Jeromy Markee on Aug 30, 2023 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Snow Creek Wall's newest addition. This is a two pitch variation that avoids the two crux pitches (p3 5.13 & p7 5.12+) of Nebula.
The route climbs a featured 60m slab, double roofs, a steep & sustained crack head wall, and a wild tips traverse out of Jimmy's Roof into a long & techy face where the route meets up at the Diving Board ledge with Afterburner. All bolted anchors.
Go get after it! You won't regret it.
P1, 5.10: All draws, 1x - .2,.3,#1. 2x- .4
The Silver Tongue. Trust your rubber and teeter up the slab passing two distinct cruxes. Enter the "Frog Flake" and enjoy good jams and gear before you have to punch it to the bolt. Use a runner on the bolt and make some very fun moves out left to the next bolt, then up to some easy climbing to the anchor.
P2, 5.11+: All draws. 1x- .4, .75
The double roofs. Extend the first bolt and step right to move up a few more feet until you can traverse easily left, into the corner. Clip a bolt, then another above your head. Boulder straight over this roof using a hidden crimp into an awkward underling. Traverse rightward into the short crack then to the white A-Frame Roof. Once above, follow two bolts right thru an awkward fin-pinch feature. At the second bolt move left onto the face using thin crimps. Follow the bolts up and thru a final right facing corner. Ramble up easy unprotected terrain to an anchor on the huge "Jungle Ledge". (NOTE: you will not be able to communicate with your partner no matter how loud you yell).
P3, 5.12- PG, The whole rack
From the chain anchor, move the belay ~15ft right to a two bolt anchor below the obvious crack system.
Climb the crack for 25m-ish to a small rooflet at the end of a splitter dihedral where you'll find the obvious leftward under-cling traverse. DO NOT go higher to the second under-cling. It is possible to go higher and get a green alien in, however, traversing here is much harder and the rope drag heinous.
Reach way out and place a good 0.4 &/or 0.5 out into the under-cling and punch it for a couple moves to a stance where more gear can be found. The undercling finishes at a bolt next to a bouldery finger crack. Follow this until moving left at the next bolt and up to the anchor.
P4, 5.10: all draws, 2x- .2 to .75, 1x- #1
Follow the thin cracks trending right to where the angle steepens and eventually the crack goes up and to a bolt on dikes. Scramble up to the base of a small tower (optional belay with bolt and 0.75) move up the clean flakes to bolts with some short lived but excellent face climbing. Shared belay with Afterburner below Jimmy's Roof.
P5, 5.11-: all draws, 1x- .1, .75, #1, 2x- .2, .3, .4, .5
Climb the bolted face (extend the 3rd) up into the roof. Plug a #1 (extend it) out in the roof, like THIS. Bust out of the roof and move wildly rightward at the horizontal to a good stance and a very a exposed rightward tips traverse. Put draws on all your gear for rope drag. When possible, face climb up thru 2 bolts until the horizontal crack. Build a belay here if you have rope drag. Otherwise, go right along the crack to the next bolt. Delicately dance up small knobs and features straight up to Diving Board Ledge.
P6/7, 5.7, 5.9: 8 draws, single rack .2 - #2
Finish as for Afterburner. (can be done as one pitch if the 1st bolt is double extended) Traverse the ledge far left, up a juggy flake to a bolt. Pull the roof and move right along the lip of the roof until you can move easily up on chicken heads to a bolted anchor below the big corner. Belay here or continue up and into the larger corner, 5.9 (Last pitch of Galaxy). Belay off the tree at the top of the wall.
*****P7, Nebula version - 5.12+. 7 draws
From the p7 belay, start up the corner ~5ft until you can move right on a horizontal to the first bolt on the arete directly above the belay. Make a few moves up the arete then execute sequential, relentless climbing up the dihedral. (some pins in place to facilitate working the pitch).
two bolt anchor then easy 5th class pitch to the big tree.
Walk off.
Photos
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