New Latitude
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, May 1998 |
Page Views: | 451 total · 32/month |
Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Nov 25, 2023 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a right to left girdle traverse of The Sentinel's huge West Face, offering a wide variety of face climbing challenges. In terms of pitches, this is the longest route at Joshua Tree, with exhilarating exposure, exciting for both the leader and follower.
Pitch 1: (5.11d) Climb Worms in Your Brain. 5 bolts to a bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: (5.10d) Traverse left on ledges that peter out, then climb up past a bolt (10d) to another flake/ledge. Keep traversing left, then where the ledge disappears face climb left (10-) over to Illusion Dweller and set up a hanging belay with gear just below the roof.
Pitch 3: (5.11b) Climb down about 15 feet, then make a tricky traverse left from the Illusion Dweller crack over to a bolt (11b). Continue left (10+) past another bolt (shared with Tarantula) to the bolt belay for Tarantula.
Pitch 4: (5.12a/b) Climb up past a bolt up into a thin seam (11+) then make a pumpy traverse left past two more bolts at a horizontal feature that fades into a blank wall. A thin, crimpy, steep slab traverse left (route crux; 12a/b) is required to gain a dish at the base of a vertical groove. Go up the groove past two more bolts (shared with The Scorpion), then dyno left (5.11-) to grab a flake. From the flake/ledge make a tricky face traverse left (10+) past a bolt over to the top of the crack of Desert Song, then hand traverse left on a horizontal crack to the bolted belay for Desert Song at a nice little ledge.
Pitch 5: (5.10b) Tiptoe left on a narrowing ledge, then where the ledge peters out, continue traversing left past three bolts to a bolted belay at a stance at the base of a dihedral (Where Eagles Dare pitch 2; 100-foot rap from here).
Pitch 6: (5.11a/b) Traverse left around the corner, then past a bolt to meet Medicine Man at its second bolt. At a third bolt climb up and left on a thin slab, then easier climbing leads to the top (gear anchor).
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