Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 6 pitches
FA: Bob Gaines and Dave Mayville, May 1998
Page Views: 451 total · 32/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Nov 25, 2023
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is a right to left girdle traverse of The Sentinel's huge West Face, offering a wide variety of face climbing challenges. In terms of pitches, this is the longest route at Joshua Tree, with exhilarating exposure, exciting for both the leader and follower. 

Pitch 1: (5.11d) Climb Worms in Your Brain. 5 bolts to a bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: (5.10d) Traverse left on ledges that peter out, then climb up past a bolt (10d) to another flake/ledge. Keep traversing left, then where the ledge disappears face climb left (10-) over to Illusion Dweller and set up a hanging belay with gear just below the roof.

Pitch 3: (5.11b) Climb down about 15 feet, then make a tricky traverse left from the Illusion Dweller crack over to a bolt (11b). Continue left (10+) past another bolt (shared with Tarantula) to the bolt belay for Tarantula.

Pitch 4: (5.12a/b) Climb up past a bolt up into a thin seam (11+) then make a pumpy traverse left past two more bolts at a horizontal feature that fades into a blank wall. A thin, crimpy, steep slab traverse left (route crux; 12a/b) is required to gain a dish at the base of a vertical groove. Go up the groove past two more bolts (shared with The Scorpion), then dyno left (5.11-) to grab a flake. From the flake/ledge make a tricky face traverse left (10+) past a bolt over to the top of the crack of Desert Song, then hand traverse left on a horizontal crack to the bolted belay for Desert Song at a nice little ledge.

Pitch 5: (5.10b) Tiptoe left on a narrowing ledge, then where the ledge peters out, continue traversing left past three bolts to a bolted belay at a stance at the base of a dihedral (Where Eagles Dare pitch 2; 100-foot rap from here).

Pitch 6: (5.11a/b) Traverse left around the corner, then past a bolt to meet Medicine Man at its second bolt. At a third bolt climb up and left on a thin slab, then easier climbing leads to the top (gear anchor).

Location Suggest change

This route traverses The Sentinel's massive West Face from right to left, starting with the route Worms in Your Brain and finishing with the top section of Medicine Man.

Protection Suggest change

Double rack to 3 inches (including two #3 Camalots)

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