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Routes in Madrone Coves
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40 Year Old Swingers S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Airbender S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Backbender S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Earthbender S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Fondue or Fondon't S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hairbender S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Machu Picchu Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Moss Grande S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My Neighbor Totoro S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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New Tricks S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Dog S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Retirement Plan S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sky Bison S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Social Security S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Swampbender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Waterbender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Hess, January 2025 |
| Page Views: | 0 total · 0/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Hess on Jan 23, 2025 |
| Admins: | Kristin Tippey, JD Merritt, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Logging Land: no access in high fire danger, don't drive past the gate.
Details
Private land info on the sign at the gate (please see photo). Follow all rules on the sign to ensure future access.
When a red fire hazard sign is posted, access is temporarily not allowed.
If you encounter logging personnel be courteous and follow any instructions. Access is a privilege.
Don't block the gate. Park well away from the corner/intersection on west boundary road, or in the two spots just right of the gate. (please see photo). Stay out during active logging operations, gate is often left open during these times.
When a red fire hazard sign is posted, access is temporarily not allowed.
If you encounter logging personnel be courteous and follow any instructions. Access is a privilege.
Don't block the gate. Park well away from the corner/intersection on west boundary road, or in the two spots just right of the gate. (please see photo). Stay out during active logging operations, gate is often left open during these times.
Description
New Tricks is a good route for new leaders, and was closely bolted with that in mind. A few moves on the initial featured slab get you to a pedestal and an abundance of jugs. Although the holds are large and numerous, the porous rock is not the most solid in the valley. Pull down rather than out as much as possible as you flow through the large hand and foot holds. Stay to the left where Old Tricks splits off to the right after bolt four. Traverse left after bolt 6, where the route gets a little steeper and slightly harder over the last 3 meters.
Photos
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