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North Buttress Direct
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Grand Teton
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Bean's Shining Wall of Storms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beyer East Face I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Ice - West Face Combination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI3 |
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Burgette Arête T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Collins-Coombs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Collins-Hume T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crystal Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0 |
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Crystal Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Emerson Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Exum Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fight or Flight Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flipping Tokens to Hoboken T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Gold Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jackson-Rickert Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Lower Exum Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Buttress Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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North Face Highlight Tour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Face Standard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Side Lowlight Tour (path of least resistance) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Owen Spalding T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Perception Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Petzoldt Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pownall-Gilkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Psudo Emerson Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4- |
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Simpleton Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M1 Mod. Snow |
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Stettner Couloir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face of the Exum Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wish You Were Here T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wittich Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wooden Ships T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), 14 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Justin Bowen and Mark Jenkins, August 15th 2020 |
| Page Views: | 1,461 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Bowen on Oct 9, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Description
This is a long and committing route on the north face of the Grand Teton. It took us 13 hours from our bivy on Teton Glacier to the summit.
Approach the climb from the funnel of snow just east of the ice fall, crossing the bergshrund at the top. Gain the small, right trending ledge, following it for about 5 pitches of 4th and easy 5th class. About three-quarters of the way, there is a mandatory rappel. We rapped our rope around a bulge as there was minimal gear to build an anchor. The first pitch starts at the very end of the ledge.
P1 - 5.9PG face climbing, gear in cracks
P2 - 5.10 right-leaning finger crack followed by a left-leaning finger crack
P3 - 5.10+R scary, dirty crack with unprotected face moves left over bulge
P4 - 5.7 ramps up and right into an ice-filled gully
P5 - 5.6 wet choss to top of gulley
P6 - 5.7 left out of gully to good hand crack
P7,8,9 - simul-climb up 4th and 5th class to base of second tower
P10 - 5.7 crack
P11 - 5.9 crack to top of tower
P12 - 5.7 up chossy dihedral
P13 - 5.9 through crack overhang, followed by several pitches of scrambling
P14 - 5.7 crack above north face.
Join East Ridge at snow, crampon up to rock, then summit.
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