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Routes in The Matron
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East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Human Experiment, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lost in America T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Matronaton T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Serpentine Dreams S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Soten S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Karl Gustafson and Don Ackerman, 1951; Karl Gustafson and Skip Greene? |
| Page Views: | 19,380 total · 66/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Wellman on Jan 13, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This route is listed in Gerry Roach's book as one of the top ten routes in the Flatirons. It has been a popular route for a long time and is quite historic. To reach the bottom of the climb, hike around to the North side of the Matron and follow a climber's trail up until you reach a large block. Chimney up between this block and the Matron and start on the bench immediately afterwards. The climb is roughly four pitches long - about 1.5 pitches of steep 5.6 on the North Face, and then easy scrambling to the summit on the East Ridge.
P1: follow a left-leaning crack on the face past a few old rusty pins to a ledge with a small tree (5.6).
P2: climb the short crack out onto the East Face, and belay on a ledge wherever convenient (5.6).
From here, the climb is much like scrambling on the East Faces of any Flatiron and is easy, well-featured, and offers little pro. Scramble for a couple hundred feet of 5.2-5.4 to the summit.
P1: follow a left-leaning crack on the face past a few old rusty pins to a ledge with a small tree (5.6).
P2: climb the short crack out onto the East Face, and belay on a ledge wherever convenient (5.6).
From here, the climb is much like scrambling on the East Faces of any Flatiron and is easy, well-featured, and offers little pro. Scramble for a couple hundred feet of 5.2-5.4 to the summit.
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