North Face Left Gully

Cross the bergshrund and establish a belay below the first pitch of beautiful ice. The North Face Left Gully starts off with a crux ice pitch that is harder and longer than anything in the Right Gully and can form anywhere in the WI3-4 range. From the top of this pitch, romp upward on steep snow and the occasional step of easy ice climbing directly to the summit of Mt Hood. Protection can be very difficult above the first pitch and it's recommended that suitors are comfortable with simulclimbing or soloing moderate alpine terrain.

Your descent will be dictated by where your car is parked. To return to Tilly Jane, descend either the Cooper Spur (steeeep snow!) or the Sunshine Route (steep snow, bergschrunds!). To return to Timberline, head down the South Route.

The North Face gullies are most commonly reached from the Tilly Jane or Cloud Cap trailheads.