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> Oak Creek Spire…
> Oak Creek Spire
North Face/West Crack
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 78
votes
Routes in Oak Creek Spire
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La Quinta T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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North Face/West Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Poquito Bandito T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Beast Master T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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"Southern Revival" South Face of Oak Creek Spire T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Ed Webster, Sue Patenaude, May 1979 |
| Page Views: | 15,265 total · 66/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Climber on Jan 23, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Oak Creek Spire is a classic double-summited Sedona spire with a rabbit-ears profile. This tower tends to have a lot more loose rock than other towers in Sedona, so a little extra caution is advised. The highlight of climbing OCS is the (in)famous "jump move" on the lead of the third pitch, where you have to leap across a gap between the spire's ears to a small stance on the far side. Exciting stuff!
For the North Face-West Crack, start on the North side in a right-facing corner (see pictures).
P1) Climb initial corner crack, then either go straight up, or out onto the face and climb to a steep exit slot and a pair of belay bolts. Move the belay from here up to a ledge just below the next pitch crack.
P2) Climb the tight-hands crack to gain the flared chimney above. If you have big hands, this may feel like 10-. Once in the flare, climb to the big blocky chimney above. You can belay here if you want to break it up a bit, or just continue up the blocky chimney the top of the lower OCS tower. This lead is about 185 feet if you go all the way.
P3) Locate the proper jump, down on a lower ledge across from the other tower. Get some slack and make the leap of faith. Not a good idea to fall. Then climb left, then up, then back right and up a last crack to a (visible from the jump spot)bolted anchor on the wall. The actual summit is another ten feet higher and includes a mailbox. Belay up to and down from here accordingly.
For the North Face-West Crack, start on the North side in a right-facing corner (see pictures).
P1) Climb initial corner crack, then either go straight up, or out onto the face and climb to a steep exit slot and a pair of belay bolts. Move the belay from here up to a ledge just below the next pitch crack.
P2) Climb the tight-hands crack to gain the flared chimney above. If you have big hands, this may feel like 10-. Once in the flare, climb to the big blocky chimney above. You can belay here if you want to break it up a bit, or just continue up the blocky chimney the top of the lower OCS tower. This lead is about 185 feet if you go all the way.
P3) Locate the proper jump, down on a lower ledge across from the other tower. Get some slack and make the leap of faith. Not a good idea to fall. Then climb left, then up, then back right and up a last crack to a (visible from the jump spot)bolted anchor on the wall. The actual summit is another ten feet higher and includes a mailbox. Belay up to and down from here accordingly.
Descent
Route can be rappelled with a single 60m rope. From the anchors after the jump rappel to the top of the sub-tower. There are red anchor bolts with quicklinks. Rappel straight down to two bolts and links on the face for the route La Quinta. From those bolts trend climbers left to two bolts at the top of the first pitch.
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