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Northeast Corner
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in The Bastille - N Face
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Bastille Crack, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Coach's Demise T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cross-country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Crossfire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dalke Offwidth T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Derek-Tissima TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Direct North Face T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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DNF 5.10 variation T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hairstyles and Attitudes T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Independent Study T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Inner Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Interceptor T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Lilliburlero T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Liquor Mart T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Madame Guillotine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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March of Dimes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Marie Antoinette T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Marie de Guillotine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Model Citizen T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Nexus T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Northcutt Guillotine T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Northcutt Start T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Northeast Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Northwest Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Outer Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Outer Space T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Prow Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Saturnalia T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Shatek's Ramp-age T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Space T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Space Invaders T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Spice Tour, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Werk Supp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wide Country T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Wide Country Lite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wide Times T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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X-M T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | J. Stuberg, T. Wilmering |
| Page Views: | 1,880 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 12, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
One for the obscure tour. While it is only feet from the road it took me 18 years to get around to it. No matter the option taken to finish the route, there are some flaws, and are some nicer sections. The overall balance makes the route one worth doing for the completist, and not totally worthy of shunning for the rest of the community.
The crux may be in the interesting climbing (10a) done getting to the shared section of P2 of March Of Dimes, or perhaps that shared section of March of Dimes (10a), or best of all, going slightly right and connecting to the 2nd pitch variant for March Of Dimes (10c) that is just to the right.
In any case, some occasional grit from lack of travel makes this route one for the experienced climber. Also, note that the route takes poor stoppers and is pretty much tip-sized cams (0.3") for most of the way. I didn't have that size and was less than pleased with my options for protection a few times.
P1: (70' Cl4, dirty) Start off on the left side of the March Of Dimes Buttress in a junky gully/ramp. If it has recently rained, this will be mossy and slick, otherwise it is a 4th class scramble. Belay at a high point above a fairly large tree at a crack just left of March of Dimes.
P2: (105' 5.10, small gear) Look up a right-leaning, low angle corner that leads up and right into a brown and yellow section of wall. A very large, upright flake punctuates the brown area where rockfall more recent than the surroundings has revealed cleaner stone and a flake that appears to be somewhat precarious. Head up to that flake on the brown area with the yellow lichen above and right. Climb either side of it for a crux (left, 10a, right 10c) that is thin (blue Alien, perhaps?) and steep. Continue up onto lower angle rock and flee right to the belay as for Werk Supp or run it out a little more to the top of the ledge directly over the flake (5.8?) and belay at a good tree.
P3: (5.3- 5.10c, depending) Three choices here:
A. (5.2) up and left around the corner and up a right leaning ramp to get to the rap chains on March of Dimes.
B. (5.10c) Directly up P3 of March of Dimes to the chains, just to your right.
C. (5.7) Out and right along a long and narrow ramp system to join Bastille Crack and to the top via that climb.
The crux may be in the interesting climbing (10a) done getting to the shared section of P2 of March Of Dimes, or perhaps that shared section of March of Dimes (10a), or best of all, going slightly right and connecting to the 2nd pitch variant for March Of Dimes (10c) that is just to the right.
In any case, some occasional grit from lack of travel makes this route one for the experienced climber. Also, note that the route takes poor stoppers and is pretty much tip-sized cams (0.3") for most of the way. I didn't have that size and was less than pleased with my options for protection a few times.
P1: (70' Cl4, dirty) Start off on the left side of the March Of Dimes Buttress in a junky gully/ramp. If it has recently rained, this will be mossy and slick, otherwise it is a 4th class scramble. Belay at a high point above a fairly large tree at a crack just left of March of Dimes.
P2: (105' 5.10, small gear) Look up a right-leaning, low angle corner that leads up and right into a brown and yellow section of wall. A very large, upright flake punctuates the brown area where rockfall more recent than the surroundings has revealed cleaner stone and a flake that appears to be somewhat precarious. Head up to that flake on the brown area with the yellow lichen above and right. Climb either side of it for a crux (left, 10a, right 10c) that is thin (blue Alien, perhaps?) and steep. Continue up onto lower angle rock and flee right to the belay as for Werk Supp or run it out a little more to the top of the ledge directly over the flake (5.8?) and belay at a good tree.
P3: (5.3- 5.10c, depending) Three choices here:
A. (5.2) up and left around the corner and up a right leaning ramp to get to the rap chains on March of Dimes.
B. (5.10c) Directly up P3 of March of Dimes to the chains, just to your right.
C. (5.7) Out and right along a long and narrow ramp system to join Bastille Crack and to the top via that climb.
Location
This route starts off to the left of the March Of Dimes buttress and finishes at the March of Dimes P3 start, or traverses up the same ramp into the Bastille Crack.
Photos
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