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Northern Yosemite Climbing

Climbing Area Map

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Elevation:	6,295 ft	1,919 m
GPS:	38.06084, -119.7496 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	655 total · 37/month
Shared By:	Ron Felton on Aug 8, 2023
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Where is NOYO?

Northern Yosemite (NOYO) consist of the area between the Tuolumne River (Hetch Hetchy) drainage north to the park border at The Emigrant Wilderness, the Cherry Creek drainage to the west and the High Sierra to the east. The landscape in the area consist of high quality granite cliffs, slabs and domes mixed amongst broken cliffs and many lakes. The only documented route in this area outside of the mountain routes is the 1983 route named "Supercleavage". This 5.9 climb splits the center of Nance Peak. The area surrounding Nance, Eleanor Creek and the Kibbie Creek drainage can be rugged in places due to the cliff bands and lack of trails. The hike into the Edyth Lake (spelled both ways) area is 17 miles from the Lake Eleanor trailhead, half of which is cross country and requires ascending 3000 feet in elevation before dropping into the basin another 1600 feet.

Getting To The Edge of There

The easiest access into the Eleanor Creek drainage is from the Eleanor Lake trailhead which is the northern entrance to Yosemite. This is reached by car on Cottonwood road from either Groveland or Sonora. After Crossing the dam at Cherry Lake turn right and follow dirt roads and obvious signs another 10 minutes to the parking area at the lake. You will pass a 12x24 sign welcoming you to Yosemite, no kiosk here folks. From here the area to the east of Cherry Creek can be accessed via the Kibbie Creek trail or the area above Eleanor Creek via old Eleanor Road. Since the only CURRENT documented route is Supercleavage, directions can be found there along with any other subsequent routes that are documented. Permits are required but do not require you to go through the park service. They are free, can be picked up after hours and are available at the Stanislaus National Forest Service office in both Groveland and Sonora. Get what you need in those places as there are no amenities past here. Verizon cell service is oddly available in certain locations even in the backcountry and there is summer staff across the dam at Lake Eleanor and also back at Cherry Lake. This should be treated as wilderness travel. Pack accordingly.