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Omega Buttress Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Omega Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Annals of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Canada Regional Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5- M4- Easy Snow
	Cardiac Arêtes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dihedral of Horrors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Edge of Horror, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Guardian of Death T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V10 7C+ C0-1
	Man O' War (Ship's Prow Pillar) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Manufactured Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Omega Crack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Omega Triangle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pitch One 5.10 Variation (Ship's Prow) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sherm's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	7,500 ft	2,286 m
GPS:	43.65911, -110.81351 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	28,805 total · 126/month
Shared By:	Orphaned User on Mar 26, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

There are a lot of fun routes on this small buttress/tower. With such a short approach, it's in the same class as Guide's Wall, No Perches Necessary and Baxter's Pinnacle: not overly alpine in nature. But the weather, some loose rock, and gully descent will remind you that you're in the 'Tons!

That said, it's a wonderful place to go if you've only got a half-day or don't want to commit to a bigger/longer route.

Getting There

Park at the Death Canyon Trailhead near the southern entrance of the park. Hike for a little over 2 miles (you'll climb up to Phelps Lake overlook, and then descend 2 switchbacks into Death Canyon proper). After hiking up the actual canyon for about 0.5 miles, you'll pass 2 switchbacks. A few minutes after the second switchback, look for a talus slope leading up to the Omega Buttress. The buttress is very high, but the unmistakable dihedral of Dihedral of Horrors makes a very good marker.

Hike up the talus until you arrive at a gully below the buttress. The easiest path up the gully takes some 4th class terrain on the right side of the gully for about 50 feet. Continue up the loose and somewhat nasty gully for another 10-15 minutes to arrive on the bottom of the Omega Buttress.

Total approach times is about 1 1/2 hour.

Descent

This is the descent for Dihedral of Horrors and Annals of Time

Two ropes required OR one 70m rope.

Locate the huge tree with lots of slings. A rap leads to a gully. Down climb a move or two with a 70m (4th class).
Follow the trail to skiers left but DO NOT rappel off the furthest tree! We made this mistake and had to climb back up some. Some downclimbing will get you to a grassy descent gully and back to your packs.

Note: Look at the Descent drawing. The 2nd rap should be a mellow ramp. Do not follow the HUGE gully to the left, instead aim for the saddle to your right and downclimb that gully!

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Omega Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 28 ● Annals of Time Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 88 ● Dihedral of Horrors Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 10 ● Cardiac Arêtes Trad, Alpine
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 7 ● Omega Crack Trad, Sport, Alpine 2 pitches