Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Bob Kamps, Dave Rearick, TM Herbert, 1957 |
Page Views: | 51,816 total · 224/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jan 20, 2006 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
The Mace is a classic Sedona route, and one of the "must do" lines in the area. If you're used to Moab area towers, this is a bit of a disappointment in terms of rock quality, but the adventure itself is wonderful.
Approach from a small trailhead off of Back O' Beyond Road in Sedona. The hike is 15-20 minutes at a leisurely pace.
P1: Climb up chimney (or the runout face to the right) to a crack through limestone band. Pull a small roof to gain a big alcove with eyebolt belay. 5.7.
P2: Head up a handcrack in the back corner of alcove, into a chimney, breaking left at top and continuing up an offwidth crack in the corner. A final corner leads to an eyebolt belay on top of a small pillar. 5.9.
P3: Clip a bolt off the left side of the pillar and perform an airy traverse left to gain a crack system. Climb this to reach a small triangular belay ledge with another eyebolt belay.
P4: Pass through a slot to the west, then move right and climb a crack system to an alcove about halfway up. From here, chimney and offwidth (crux) past a bolt. This leads to the summit of the lower tower and an eyebolt belay.
P5: Lean across to the higher tower, clip a bolt, and traverse right and climb up to gain an easier slab to the top. Belay off a strange anchor bolted to the summit.
Descent: Rappel to lower summit (or do the jump... bad idea). Two double-rope raps from the lower summit if you have 60m cord. If you have a 70m rope, you can do the same raps with one line.
65 Comments