Overhanging Hangover
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Jorge and Joanne Urioste, Dan Goodwin |
Page Views: | 17,608 total · 70/month |
Shared By: | Mark Hammond on Apr 22, 2004 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This two pitch gem finishes through the right side of the giant roof between Fiddler on the Roof and Sour Mash. A great day ender.From the bench at the base of the Black Velvet Wall, under the right side of the roof (base of Sour Mash), scramble up and left (3rd class) to belay at a bush. Pitch 1 goes up and right from here, following a line of bolts (with supplemental gear) to a two bolt anchor. Continuous balancy edging, a super pitch.Pitch two goes up and right again, up a crack and out through the huge roof (3 bolts), to a two bolt rap anchor.The size of the roof makes the .10a grade seem dubious, but have faith. Super position and exposure for a two pitch route!A 200ft rap brings you back to the top of the 3rd class, WATCH THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPES! Not sure about single rope rappel option?NOTES: A)You could continue up Fiddler on the Roof, this start would bypass the scary roof traverse on that route.B)This route is described in the Supertopo guidebook, but not the Swain book. However, it may be aka Early Times, or share ground with that route.
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