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Routes in Grand Teton
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Bean's Shining Wall of Storms T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beyer East Face I T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Ice - West Face Combination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c AI3 |
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Burgette Arête T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Collins-Coombs T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Collins-Hume T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crystal Right T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0 |
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Crystal Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Direct Petzoldt Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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East Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Emerson Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Exum Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Fight or Flight Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flipping Tokens to Hoboken T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Gold Face T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Golden Pillar, Direct North Face T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jackson-Rickert Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Lower Exum Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Buttress Direct T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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North Face Highlight Tour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Face Standard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Side Lowlight Tour (path of least resistance) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Owen Spalding T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Perception Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Petzoldt Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pownall-Gilkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Psudo Emerson Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4- |
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Simpleton Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M1 Mod. Snow |
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Stettner Couloir T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI2-3 Mod. Snow |
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Underhill Ridge Original/Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face of the Exum Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wish You Were Here T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wittich Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wooden Ships T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1560 ft (473 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Owen, Spalding, Peterson (Aug 11, 1898) |
| Page Views: | 184,311 total · 806/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Wine on Apr 10, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Description
From the upper saddle (13,160'), hike and scramble 70m NNE to the common rope up point and belay under the Whittich Crack. Hand jam and lie back 1.5m on the wedged boulder of the “Belly Roll” Continue on ledge north to reach the "crawl", which is more of a straddle than crawl. It is a ledge not more than 18" wide with an overhang above. The exposure here is very exciting. Continue traversing the ledge about 15' to the double chimney (P1)
Directly above this is the Double Chimney (P2)
Traverse right on the easy “Cat Walk” in dry conditions only or confront the crux “Owen Chimney” when the “cat walk is wet or icy. The Owen Chimney is the crux with stemming mantels along 4 fixed pitons and a slung block.
The route from here goes (southeast) east to a third, very large chimney called Sargent's Chimney (P3). Usually, exit the chimney on left. From the top of Sarg's, continue up and to the left. Pay careful attention to your ascent path from Sarg's, you'll need to find it on the down climb and it isn't obvious!
For the descent, down climb Sargents Chimney and then make your way to the left to a 120' rappel that drops you directly onto the upper saddle.
The route finding can be difficult, particularly on descent given the whole mountain shows signs of traffic. There are many variations to the route depending on conditions.
Buy the guidebook: "A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range" by Ortenburger & Jackson. It is perhaps the greatest guidebook ever written.
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