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Palisades Park

Alabama

Description

If you're looking for a pleasant spot to bring friends new to climbing, Alabama's Palisades Park is a great choice.

Located not far from Birmingham, Palisades is a Blount County Park with a nice little cliff line running just below its parking lot. There's a good range of climbing difficulty, ranging from easy 5.4 up to roofy 5.12. Almost all routes can be easily top-roped without leading, and most have permanent anchors, so it's a perfect place for a beginner's first outdoor climbing experience. And if you're just getting started on trad, Palisades is an excellent training ground; routes like Buckets (5.5) offer easy leading and plentiful protection. Be aware, though, that the grades tend to be sandbagged; Elephant Crack (5.6) and Box Lunch (5.7) are not for the novice leader. There's no sport climbing at Palisades; no bolting is allowed.

All climbers must register at the park office and buy a $5 climbing permit (good for three days) or a $35 annual permit. From the parking lot, head for the cliff top near a picnic pavilion and scramble down a fourth-class gully/chimney to the base of the cliff.

If you need a map of the routes, the park office will supply you with one. Otherwise, the Dixie Cragger's Atlas is a good resource for routes at Palisades.

Getting There

From Birmingham, take SR 75 north to Oneonta. Take a left on US 231 (north); about a mile or two outside of Oneonta, watch for signs pointing to Palisades Park and follow county roads to the park entrance.

From Atlanta, take I-20 west to the US 231 exit. Follow 231 north through Oneonta, then follow directions above to the park.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 14
● Fire Tower
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
● R&D
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 54
● Elephant Crack
Trad, TR
V0+ 4+
 1
● Kiddie Crack
Trad, TR, Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 27
● Buckets
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
● Mickey's Mantle
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
● Micro Gulley
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 53
● Boobs
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
● Tim's Route
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 29
● Pillar
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 38
● Box Lunch
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
● Foton's Finish
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● Spinnin' Wheels
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
● Squat
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Loose Stitches
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Five Nine Arete
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
● Lady Fingers
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Pharaoh's Revenge
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
● Face Of A Phantom
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
● Marginal Monster (M&M)
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 2
● Burly Girls
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
● Mister Green Jeans
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
● Lead This?
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
● Oh My Achin' Head
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● Kodiak Arrest
TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 35
● Steeples
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 2
● Stumbling Block
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 34
● Posey's Pass
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
● Warp Factor
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 5
● A Little Help From My Friends
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
● The Flake
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
● The Flake Face
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
● Dirty Dancing
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
● Christmas Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
● My Little Pocket Frog
Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
● The Corner Arete
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
● Nameless Arete
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
● Post Nasal Drip
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
● The Nose
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 1
● Stage Left Direct
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 9
● Exit Stage Left
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 58
● Cashmere
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
● Night of the climbing dead
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
● Snake Bit
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● USS Comfort Arete
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
● Pickin Pockets
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● Etheral Cathedral
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
● Trivial Pursuit
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
● Chimney
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 14
● Bubba
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
● Unnamed 7
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
● Tinkerbell
TR
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 1
● Captain Hook
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● Street Fighting Man
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 6
● Jumpin' Jeff Flash
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● Three's A Charm
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
● Nine to Five
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
● Captain Crunch
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
● Whip Me, Beat Me
Trad, TR
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
● Hard Days Night
TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
● April Fools
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Fire Tower
 14
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
● R&D
 19
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Elephant Crack
 54
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Kiddie Crack
 1
V0+ 4+ Trad, TR, Boulder
● Buckets
 27
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● Mickey's Mantle
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
● Micro Gulley
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
● Boobs
 53
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
● Tim's Route
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
● Pillar
 29
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Box Lunch
 38
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
● Foton's Finish
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
● Spinnin' Wheels
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Squat
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Loose Stitches
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Five Nine Arete
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Lady Fingers
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Pharaoh's Revenge
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Face Of A Phantom
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
● Marginal Monster (M&M)
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
● Burly Girls
 2
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
● Mister Green Jeans
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Lead This?
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
● Oh My Achin' Head
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Kodiak Arrest
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
● Steeples
 35
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
● Stumbling Block
 2
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Posey's Pass
 34
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Warp Factor
 6
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● A Little Help From My Friends
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
● The Flake
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● The Flake Face
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
● Dirty Dancing
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
● Christmas Crack
 17
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
● My Little Pocket Frog
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
● The Corner Arete
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
● Nameless Arete
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
● Post Nasal Drip
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
● The Nose
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Stage Left Direct
 1
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
● Exit Stage Left
 9
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● Cashmere
 58
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad, TR
● Night of the climbing dead
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
● Snake Bit
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● USS Comfort Arete
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
● Pickin Pockets
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Etheral Cathedral
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
● Trivial Pursuit
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Chimney
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
● Bubba
 14
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● Unnamed 7
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Tinkerbell
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR
● Captain Hook
 1
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b TR
● Street Fighting Man
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Jumpin' Jeff Flash
 6
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
● Three's A Charm
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Nine to Five
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Captain Crunch
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Whip Me, Beat Me
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Hard Days Night
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
● April Fools
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A Palisades Park topo I made trying to mix MP info with the park's map. Note this may have wrong info (route names, locations, repeat routes, etc.)
[Hide Photo] A Palisades Park topo I made trying to mix MP info with the park's map. Note this may have wrong info (route names, locations, repeat routes, etc.)
Official park map, as of Aug 2020
[Hide Photo] Official park map, as of Aug 2020
Official park map, as of Aug 2020
[Hide Photo] Official park map, as of Aug 2020
List of climbs with anchors
[Hide Photo] List of climbs with anchors
Giving a ropes course for Troop 757, below Eliphant Crack.
[Hide Photo] Giving a ropes course for Troop 757, below Eliphant Crack.
Another fire tower shot.
[Hide Photo] Another fire tower shot.
View from the old fire tower. You have to jump the fence to get to it. Also, be very very careful many steps are missing and a lot are rotting. Scarier than most of the routes.
[Hide Photo] View from the old fire tower. You have to jump the fence to get to it. Also, be very very careful many steps are missing and a lot are rotting. Scarier than most of the routes.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stonyman Killough
Alabama
[Hide Comment] Pallisades Park is a well kept and beutifull park that is nice to take your family for a picnic and some nice liad back climbing. The only critter you need worry about is the ever present cane break rattler. They really like laying agianst the cliff line on a hot summer day and they're about three feet long and fat, and mean when provoked. We've been going there for years and have only saw a couple. Though, this is still a great, really pretty place and check out the chain saw carvings, really cool!! Mar 30, 2008
Chris Blanchard
Anacortes, WA
[Hide Comment] Its 3 bucks now ..... AND they have some new bolted anchors through out .. noticed on top of Posey's and a few on the Island - didn't do more digging than that. Feb 25, 2012
Nathan Self
Louisiana
[Hide Comment] Anchors are currently being installed throughout the park, with about 25 already complete. This weekend, I was told that they plan to set about 50 total. Mar 5, 2012
Cres Simpson
Cambridge, MA
[Hide Comment] One of the few places that seems to offer tolerable climbing "out of season" (aka deep summer) in AL. The cliffline gives shade from morning through early afternoon and there's plentiful access to water from the top of the cliff.

As a heads up, the park office doesn't open until 9am to sell permits -- though we did manage to find an employee who doesn't normally work the office who was willing to open it up for us before the ranger got there. We were only charged $2, but that may reflect inexperience on behalf of the employee who checked us in. May 26, 2012
Siberia
Birmingham, AL
[Hide Comment] Anyone know what type of hangers they put up at Palisades? I was there this weekend, but didn't recognize them. Thanks in advance, Jun 12, 2012
jmat
Alabama
[Hide Comment] Which routes have the new anchors on them? I haven't been to Palisades in years. I've been out of climbing for awhile, but some of the youth in my church want me to take them climbing. Oct 2, 2012
matthew foote
[Hide Comment] I will be in the area and was wondering what is needed to set up a TR here? I saw someone said something about bolted anchors. Are they accessible from the top, or that only for topping out on trad? Dec 10, 2012
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
[Hide Comment] Some, if not all anchors are accessible from the top. Still, it's wise to bring a few long pieces of rope or webbing (two 50 footers would be plenty) in case you want to get on a route that has not been updated. Dec 11, 2012
Sam Hardy
[Hide Comment] 1. do you only need 1 permit per group or per person?
2. on the website it says you have to be 19 to apply for the climbing permit. I'm over 19 but i would like to take my little brother who is 17. does anyone know how strict they are with the age limit.

I called the park but the phone number was disconnected. Aug 26, 2014
BrendanN
New London, CT
[Hide Comment] Some extra info for those wondering:

1. Climbing permits are currently $5 per person, anyone under age 19 needs a parent/guardian to get a permit. It is only good for 3 days now.

2. There is a park map with some climbing routes and walkdown paths marked. It can be found in the park office where you get your permit.

3. This site should have a list of routes with fixed anchors as well as more up-to-date info: blountcountypark.com/activi… May 10, 2016
Roxas77
[Hide Comment] Hey guys. I was just wondering what kind of gear do I need to have to set up a top rope here? I currently have a 60m rope, a sling, locking carabiniers, quick draws, a belay device, and harnesses. May 27, 2016
James Lee
Mobile, AL
[Hide Comment] I took my teenage daughter and her friend here for the first time this past weekend. It is a really nice park, and for a fall weekend, there were not many climbers. This place does not get near the amount of traffic Sandrock does, and I would guess many of the non-bolted anchor routes are seldom climbed. We had a great time toproping, which allowed the girls and I to really stretch ourselves on harder routes. The route map posted here is really helpful, along with Dixie Cragger, there are more bolted anchor routes than the ones listed, and a few had rap rings. Metolius hangers and it all looks brand new. You just have to work your way along the cliff peering over the side. We also rigged a few tree anchors too. $5 per person, for a three day permit is cheap for such a nice park. Oct 17, 2017
Stan Pickering
[Hide Comment] I am a fairly novice climber myself. My previous experience is primarily top roping with some multi pitch climbing out west (led by a guide). I would like to expose my 6 year old to the world of climbing. He is pretty adventurous and loves the outdoors. Can anyone more familiar with Palisades speak to whether or not this park would would Provide good opportunity for a climber his age to enjoy? Apr 16, 2018
Bad Beta
[Hide Comment] I was thinking of climbing here while on a trip to Birmingham in early December. Does anyone know how the crag is around that time of year? Based on monthly averages, it seems like the temperatures would be reasonable (highs in the mid-fifties), but it also looks like there's a good chance of precipitation in December.

Also, could anyone tell me what rock type is at Palisades? Aug 13, 2019
Thomas Taylor
Birmingham
[Hide Comment] Palisades was the first place I climbed outdoors and is still my favorite when I'm home. Never had to maneuver crowds or wait for a route to open up. Always have had something to climb and something to push myself on regardless of my particular skill set at the time. After 1pm you can count on a lot of shade, and it's a beautiful place to just sit around and ponder the greater meaning of life or the meaning of nothing whatsoever,,, who cares, just dig the place, you won't be dissapointed! Sep 3, 2019