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Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (10) Pine Creek…
> Mescalito
> Dark Shadows Wall
Parental Guidance
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3.7 from 25
votes
Routes in Dark Shadows Wall
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Chasing Shadows T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dark Shadows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Shadows (Full) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream Safari (5.10 or 5.11) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Edge Dressing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Excellent Adventure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Extra Credit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heart of Darkness T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Lost Voices T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Negro Blanco T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Peyote Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Risky Business T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Sandstone Sandwich T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Short Circuit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slot Machine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Tupper & Greg Mayer - 1988 |
| Page Views: | 6,813 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on May 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Parental Guidance is one of the best in Red Rocks. The first pitch alone is excellent, but the second is just as outrageous and not to be missed. These two can be linked together with careful runnering of gear thus eliminating a point of aid at the hanging belay.
P1 - 5.10d, 100': Takes a wandering path through a low roof and up a steep face to an extremely steep "Wheat Thin" style flake up the headwall. A final, wild step-across move accesses the anchor atop the first pitch of Lethal Weapon.
P2 - 5.12a, 100': Pinch nipples off the belay (crux), then step right and back left and gun it up a massive, hollow flake to a few opportunities for gear. Thin climbing (second crux) up beautiful varnish leads to a good foothold and the anchor.
This climb is aptly named. Also, care should be used to protect the fragile rock on much of the route - pull gently.
P1 - 5.10d, 100': Takes a wandering path through a low roof and up a steep face to an extremely steep "Wheat Thin" style flake up the headwall. A final, wild step-across move accesses the anchor atop the first pitch of Lethal Weapon.
P2 - 5.12a, 100': Pinch nipples off the belay (crux), then step right and back left and gun it up a massive, hollow flake to a few opportunities for gear. Thin climbing (second crux) up beautiful varnish leads to a good foothold and the anchor.
This climb is aptly named. Also, care should be used to protect the fragile rock on much of the route - pull gently.
Protection
Draws and a bunch of small cams (nothing bigger than a 0.75 Camalot). Wires, no brass needed. One 60m is enough if you do two single-rope rappels - watch your ends.
The suspect hardware on P1 was replaced by the ASCA in May, 2007.
The suspect hardware on P2 was replaced by the ASCA in March, 2014.
The suspect hardware on P1 was replaced by the ASCA in May, 2007.
The suspect hardware on P2 was replaced by the ASCA in March, 2014.
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