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Routes in Third Flatiron
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1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Exit Through The Gift Shop V0 4 |
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Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Falcon's Fracture T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flailure (Is Not an Option) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Holier than Thou S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Misled Youth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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More Mellow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Negative Space (P1) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Panda Rigolo S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Panda Scat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pandammic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pentaprance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pile In the Sky S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Roger Briggs and Tom Ruwitch, 5.8 A3, 1967 |
| Page Views: | 2,595 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Annecone on Jan 3, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
Pentaprance climbs the huge dihedral system on the upper SW face of the Third Flatiron, just right of Friday's Folly. We climbed it in one long pitch and one short pitch, rather than the 3 pitches shown in the Rossiter guide.
Pitch 1: Head up the obvious dihedral to a fixed pin. Do some mildly runout climbing on 5.9+ terrain to the first bulge/roof. Pull over the bulge, and continue up the corner on interesting and sustained climbing which is tricky to pro in places. Keep heading up till you pull through the second roof/bulge, and belay. This pitch is long, exciting, varied, and sporty in places, but never really too scary if you're solid at the grade.
Pitch 2: Traverse directly left on the steep face following the horizontal crack system, past two (or so) bolts/pins (sorry, it's been a while). The pitch is short but very sustained and technical, with poor feet and sloper hand holds along the horizontal. I thought it was perhaps 5.11a or possibly a little harder, in contrast to the guidebook rating of 5.10d. After a few cool moves, the climbing eases up and you traverse onto a big ledge at the top of the first pitch of Friday's Folly.
Keep going left to the end of the ledge and rap the last part of the standard Third Flatiron descent, which is right over Saturday's Folly. It is a very good route with relatively clean rock.
Pitch 1: Head up the obvious dihedral to a fixed pin. Do some mildly runout climbing on 5.9+ terrain to the first bulge/roof. Pull over the bulge, and continue up the corner on interesting and sustained climbing which is tricky to pro in places. Keep heading up till you pull through the second roof/bulge, and belay. This pitch is long, exciting, varied, and sporty in places, but never really too scary if you're solid at the grade.
Pitch 2: Traverse directly left on the steep face following the horizontal crack system, past two (or so) bolts/pins (sorry, it's been a while). The pitch is short but very sustained and technical, with poor feet and sloper hand holds along the horizontal. I thought it was perhaps 5.11a or possibly a little harder, in contrast to the guidebook rating of 5.10d. After a few cool moves, the climbing eases up and you traverse onto a big ledge at the top of the first pitch of Friday's Folly.
Keep going left to the end of the ledge and rap the last part of the standard Third Flatiron descent, which is right over Saturday's Folly. It is a very good route with relatively clean rock.
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