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Routes in Third Flatiron
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1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Exit Through The Gift Shop V0 4 |
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Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Falcon's Fracture T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flailure (Is Not an Option) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Holier than Thou S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Misled Youth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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More Mellow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Negative Space (P1) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Panda Rigolo S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Panda Scat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pandammic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pentaprance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pile In the Sky S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | R. & J. Rossiter, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 3,080 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 13, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
From the East Bench of the Third Flatiron, from where the Standard Route starts, go up and right on the ground to a diminuitive slab, below the main face. There are other ways to break down the pitches, but this is what we did:
P1. Climb 65m up this slab as for the first pitch of College Dropout, but continue past the belay (5.6) to the base of a hefty crack and flake system. This is done on a 70m rope or with a small bit of simulclimbing. If you don't like that, break this into two pitches by belaying at one of the small trees along the way.
P2. Climb up and left into this bulging crack system, protecting on hand-sized cams. As the crack goes, it gets a little tighter then disappears as you try to gain the slab. Stem and cling up it. A good gear placement is available above, and there are good jams and jugs. This is a footwork oriented crux (5.10a). Pull onto the slab above and run for the summit (5.3). You should belay as far up as you can reach and still have a good belay... well past the "notch" in the side where the Northwest Passage joins the slab.... YMMV.
P3. Head for the top again. If you ran your 70m rope to the end on the last pitch, you'll probably reach it now, maybe with a few moves of simul-climbing. (5.3) Otherwise, belay and lead another pitch.
The original grade of this route was 5.10d, I believe. The most recent Rositer guidebook grades this at 5.10c. If this is a 5.10c, it may be on of the easiest 5.10c's I have ever done. Relative to the Northwest Passage (5.10a), it is FAR easier.... Anyway, my partner and I debated if this was a 5.10- or a 5.9+. I have listed this as a 5.10a as a compromise in his favor, as the book lists it as harder.
Disclaimer: It WILL be harder than 5.9+ for short people who can't reach the jugs on the slab above the bulge, but a good handjam is there that should keep it no harder than 5.10b.
P1. Climb 65m up this slab as for the first pitch of College Dropout, but continue past the belay (5.6) to the base of a hefty crack and flake system. This is done on a 70m rope or with a small bit of simulclimbing. If you don't like that, break this into two pitches by belaying at one of the small trees along the way.
P2. Climb up and left into this bulging crack system, protecting on hand-sized cams. As the crack goes, it gets a little tighter then disappears as you try to gain the slab. Stem and cling up it. A good gear placement is available above, and there are good jams and jugs. This is a footwork oriented crux (5.10a). Pull onto the slab above and run for the summit (5.3). You should belay as far up as you can reach and still have a good belay... well past the "notch" in the side where the Northwest Passage joins the slab.... YMMV.
P3. Head for the top again. If you ran your 70m rope to the end on the last pitch, you'll probably reach it now, maybe with a few moves of simul-climbing. (5.3) Otherwise, belay and lead another pitch.
The original grade of this route was 5.10d, I believe. The most recent Rositer guidebook grades this at 5.10c. If this is a 5.10c, it may be on of the easiest 5.10c's I have ever done. Relative to the Northwest Passage (5.10a), it is FAR easier.... Anyway, my partner and I debated if this was a 5.10- or a 5.9+. I have listed this as a 5.10a as a compromise in his favor, as the book lists it as harder.
Disclaimer: It WILL be harder than 5.9+ for short people who can't reach the jugs on the slab above the bulge, but a good handjam is there that should keep it no harder than 5.10b.
Protection
This is a bit runout on the slab parts, just like any other Flatiron. The crux crack/flake pitch protects quite well with a few cams from 0.75" - 3". You can get a 2-2.5" piece at your feet and hang on to get another 0.75-1.0" or 2" piece over your head for the crux, but that might be pumpy for some people.
![#1 East Face, #2 is College Drop Out (aka East Face North Side (per [[Rob Bauer]]13658).](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/1300133_smallMed_1557850290.jpg?cache=1732570245)
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