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Arizona
> Northern Arizona
> Sedona Area
> W Sedona
> Dry Creek Rd Area
> Fay Canyon
> Fay Buttress
[Redacted]
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 36
votes
Routes in Fay Buttress
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2 Legit 2 Quit T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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[Redacted] T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dune Buggyin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Golden Dog, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13 |
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Leaving Las Vegas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Psychotropic Flautist T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sandrailin' T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Say Goodnight to the Bad Guy T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Simple Twist of Fay T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Z Harrison, B McCord |
| Page Views: | 4,955 total · 66/month |
| Shared By: | Blake M on Dec 2, 2018 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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DON'T RUIN THIS ROUTE
RAIN, SNOW AND WET ROCK:
The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a storm, the rock will remain wet for at least several days, and even longer after snow storms and areas with shady aspects. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES during or after rain/snow. This route and its neighbors see very little to no sun in the winter months and will dry very slowly. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a storm, the rock will remain wet for at least several days, and even longer after snow storms and areas with shady aspects. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB THESE ROUTES during or after rain/snow. This route and its neighbors see very little to no sun in the winter months and will dry very slowly. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
Description
Bonkers face climbing up a black streak of cast iron crimps and potatoes. The route is almost entirely devoid of gear.
Pitch 1 | 60' | 5.9 | Head up a immaculate slab to a break. 4 bolts.
Pitch 2 | 115' | 5.12- | Climb up thin crimps on perfect rock...just follow the bolts :)
Pitch 3 | 80' | 5.12- | More rad face climbing. Keep following the bolts to a nice ledge.
Pitch 4 | 115' | 5.12 | Move off the ledge and blast the sky boulder problem. From here continue straight up past gear and a few bots.
Rap the route with a single 70m rope.
Pitch 1 | 60' | 5.9 | Head up a immaculate slab to a break. 4 bolts.
Pitch 2 | 115' | 5.12- | Climb up thin crimps on perfect rock...just follow the bolts :)
Pitch 3 | 80' | 5.12- | More rad face climbing. Keep following the bolts to a nice ledge.
Pitch 4 | 115' | 5.12 | Move off the ledge and blast the sky boulder problem. From here continue straight up past gear and a few bots.
Rap the route with a single 70m rope.
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