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Redgarden - Tower One Rock Climbing
Routes in Redgarden - Tower One
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Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Layton Never S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Consummation Nite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dandelion Wine S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Disclosure (new name) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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E.L. 200 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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E.L.100 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Eleven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R |
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Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Route T C2+ |
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Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Parting Shot T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Psychosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rocky Raccoon T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rover T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,785 ft | 2,068 m |
| GPS: |
39.93194, -105.28603 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 334,751 total · 1,460/month | |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyonÂ’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyonÂ’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Tower One is the obvious pointy summit of the upper Redgarden Wall. It is probably the only summit in Eldorado Canyon which can be precisely pinpointed with a single finger :) when on top. This section of Redgarden Wall will include routes on Tower One. This will be demarcated by a line connecting West Chimney to The Dirty Deed going all the way to Ruper including that terrain above the Lower Ramp.
The routes in this section certainly rank with some of the longest and finest of Eldorado Canyon. There is more to choose for the moderate climber. Some of these lines may help your spirit soar. For many, these routes hold a special place in the climbers' hearts. One down side to this is that the most popular or famous may develop queues, so plan accordingly.
Some of the best lines here include: the glorious Icarus, 5.6 s; the brilliant Ruper, 5.8 s; Alice in Bucketland, 5.8+ s; the ever-popular route, The Yellow Spur, 5.9 to 5.10b; Italian Arete, 5.9 s; Grand Giraffe, 5.10a; the airy Rosy Crucifixion, 5.10a s; Art's Spar, 5.10c; Superspar, 5.10c; Super Slab, 5.10d; Psychosis, 5.10d s; Vertigo, 5.11b; Doub-Griffith, 5.11c s; Ignition, 5.11d; Mellow Yellow, 5.11d s; Wild Kingdom, 5.12a; Apple Strudel, 5.12a/b s.
One thing to consider here is that lines that face west here do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm. Then, for a short time, it may be difficult to distinguish features above you.
It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.
The routes in this section certainly rank with some of the longest and finest of Eldorado Canyon. There is more to choose for the moderate climber. Some of these lines may help your spirit soar. For many, these routes hold a special place in the climbers' hearts. One down side to this is that the most popular or famous may develop queues, so plan accordingly.
Some of the best lines here include: the glorious Icarus, 5.6 s; the brilliant Ruper, 5.8 s; Alice in Bucketland, 5.8+ s; the ever-popular route, The Yellow Spur, 5.9 to 5.10b; Italian Arete, 5.9 s; Grand Giraffe, 5.10a; the airy Rosy Crucifixion, 5.10a s; Art's Spar, 5.10c; Superspar, 5.10c; Super Slab, 5.10d; Psychosis, 5.10d s; Vertigo, 5.11b; Doub-Griffith, 5.11c s; Ignition, 5.11d; Mellow Yellow, 5.11d s; Wild Kingdom, 5.12a; Apple Strudel, 5.12a/b s.
One thing to consider here is that lines that face west here do not go into the sun until about 11am or 12pm. Then, for a short time, it may be difficult to distinguish features above you.
It would be wise to plan your descents before you leave the ground since none are completely obvious. Many of the lines that go to the top can be descended with at least 4 methods. 1) You can rappel the Swanson Arete or Dirty Deed rappels with double ropes. 2) You can downscramble the East Slabs Descent (plan - to be fleshed out with its own separate description) low 4th class- note this is exposed, lengthy, and particularly slippery when wet. You may wind up a long way from your gear and comfortable shoes. Also, the last bit can be challenging in the spring with a wet slab finish or funky downclimb down a chimney. 3) you can rappel the Chockstone Chimney rappels which take you to the top of the Upper Ramp or Meadows. Here, you can rappel the Vertigo rappels (60m or 2 ropes) or carefully descend the Upper Meadows to the rappels below The Naked Edge. 4) You perform the lengthy traverse W or left off the top going to the top of Redgarden Wall around Hot Spur and into the 3rd class+ gully.
Getting There
To access this section of Redgarden Wall, you should park at the east end of Eldorado Canyon SP, hike uphill briefly, cross the bridge. Here, for routes from Ruper to Super Slab/Doub-Griffith you may choose one of 2 approaches depending on your preference. You can continue upstream, cross the concrete pad, follow the trail, take the right fork and you arrived nearly at the base of T2. For routes on the west side of Tower One in the vicinity of Vertigo and left, you should take the left fork (see above) and continue around the base of the Pickpocket Wall and catch the Redgarden Trail in the gully between Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge. This is labeled as a climber's access trail. Continue up this trail. Go right at the fork for Kloof Alcove area, ascend railroad tie steps, a small ladder. For routes on Tower One's west face, you likely will go to the area below Yellow Spur's start and 3rd-4th class up a short bit of rock to a ledge system. From here, you will find your route moving left or right on this ledge. Finally, it is possible to ascend a route below the Lower Ramp to gain this same ledge.
Classic Climbing Routes at Redgarden - Tower One
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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