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Remorse
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.8 from 5
votes
Routes in Snow Creek Wall
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Afterburner T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Edge of Space T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hyperspace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Iconoclast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mary Jane Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nebula (lite) "Nebulite" T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orbit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Psychopath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Remorse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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RPM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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RPM (2nd pitch early exit) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Silver Tongue, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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White Slabs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Yellow Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches |
| FA: | Ed Cooper, Galen Mcbee 1958. FFA Ron Burgner, Don McPherson |
| Page Views: | 172 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Mitchell McAuslan on Jun 2, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Usually only the first three pitches are climbed as a start variation to Outer Space. Remorse is a 6-7 pitch route that can take you to the top of snow creek wall if desired but is rarely done in its entirety. It shares some pitches with Outer space. For this post I will describe the first three pitches of Remorse to be used for Outer Space start variation.
Pitch 1: (5.6) Follow easy cracks up a low angle slab trending left. Belay under the roof of RPM on a large slung horn. This pitch is fairly dirty and wandering but the climbing is easy and protects well.
Pitch 2: (5.8) Traverse left along a large flake that you can undercling. Make some sloppy moves off the slab and continue left and then up until you come to a large ledge with a ramp on your right. This is the same ledge where Psychopath begins, which will be to the left of where pitch 3 of Remorse continues up the ramp on the right side. Build a gear anchor in a crack of your choosing.
Pitch 3: (5.8) Follow the ramp up to two tree ledge. This pitch can be climbed either up the slab and then traversing left towards the crack or following the wide crack from the bottom with some off-width moves and laybacking. Pass several trees and make a couple easy moves through a squeeze chimney that is made from a large fallen boulder. Fixed anchor belay at two tree ledge.
At this point most people will continue on to Outer space. A few feet to the right is the beginning of crux pitch (pitch 3) of Outer Space.
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