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Rite Of Spring
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Third Flatiron
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1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Exit Through The Gift Shop V0 4 |
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Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Falcon's Fracture T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flailure (Is Not an Option) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
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Holier than Thou S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Misled Youth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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More Mellow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Negative Space (P1) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Panda Rigolo S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Panda Scat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pandammic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pentaprance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pile In the Sky S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | R. Rossiter, R. Wolf, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 2,169 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 7, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
A great route that would be better with more traffic. Presently only a little lichen and a few thin holds (good rock, but thin-edged plates) make the route a little exciting, but even this considered, it is nearly uncompromised fun.
P1 (5.6, 18m): Climb up the left side of the blunt arete and aim for the general vicinity of the bolt. The climbing is perhaps 5.6. Arrange some gear and belay here (as suggested by Rossiter) ...or continue, and have your partner simul-climb to finish the route as you get higher.
P2 (5.8+, 55m): Clip the bolt and pull up and onto the climbing above. Rossiter suggests this to be the crux, but I found it to be 5.8-. Place gear as possible and head up and slightly right, avoiding the easy, (tempting) but dirty and brittle rock ramp going up left and to nowhere...
Continue up and very slightly right to the base of a shallow left-facing left-leaning corner... climb this to the top (crux, 5.8+) with OK gear, minding a few loose "holds" on either side so as not to bomb the belayer). Continue to the top on lower angle rock and mostly positive, solid rock. Belay back from the edge over the top on some hand-sized or larger cams.
To descend, climb down into the S. Chimney, and down climb that (5.3) or climb up to the rock ramp above and then rap from an old eyebolt (2 ropes) or continue up toward the summit of the 3rd and use a standard descent.
P1 (5.6, 18m): Climb up the left side of the blunt arete and aim for the general vicinity of the bolt. The climbing is perhaps 5.6. Arrange some gear and belay here (as suggested by Rossiter) ...or continue, and have your partner simul-climb to finish the route as you get higher.
P2 (5.8+, 55m): Clip the bolt and pull up and onto the climbing above. Rossiter suggests this to be the crux, but I found it to be 5.8-. Place gear as possible and head up and slightly right, avoiding the easy, (tempting) but dirty and brittle rock ramp going up left and to nowhere...
Continue up and very slightly right to the base of a shallow left-facing left-leaning corner... climb this to the top (crux, 5.8+) with OK gear, minding a few loose "holds" on either side so as not to bomb the belayer). Continue to the top on lower angle rock and mostly positive, solid rock. Belay back from the edge over the top on some hand-sized or larger cams.
To descend, climb down into the S. Chimney, and down climb that (5.3) or climb up to the rock ramp above and then rap from an old eyebolt (2 ropes) or continue up toward the summit of the 3rd and use a standard descent.
Location
Arrive at the Upper South face of the 3rd Flatiron in the vicinity of the S.W. Chimney and S. Chimney. Between those routes, perhaps downhill 30 meters from the SW chimney, and uphill 15 meters from the South Chimney, there is a blunt arete at the base of a gutter of rock leading up. This blunt arete had a 1.5 meter round solution hole to the right and a chute-shaped one up and left, above the base of the gutter and running downhill parallel to it.
Careful inspection of the rock directly above, and on the left of this arete will reveal a silver bolt-hanger on a very small "bulge" about 18 meters up. The bolt appears to be good.
Careful inspection of the rock directly above, and on the left of this arete will reveal a silver bolt-hanger on a very small "bulge" about 18 meters up. The bolt appears to be good.
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