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Sandstone Samurai
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British X
Avg: 3.5 from 14
votes
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Paul Van Betten & Nick Nordblom - 1988 |
| Page Views: | 12,835 total · 93/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Oct 12, 2013 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Sandstone Samurai is a route that has a bit of a reputation amongst Red Rocks climbers as being a psychological test piece: The story I heard is that the Adventure Punks established Rock Warrior as a response to the heavy-handed bolting by certain beloved Red Rocks first ascensionists, and then a year later PVB decided to up the ante by putting up something that was even bolder.
He succeeded - Sandstone Samurai is indeed a big step up from Rock Warrior - a route that shouldn't be taken lightly! If you decide to climb it, be prepared for R-rated climbing on every pitch (run outs with falls that would likely result in injury) and possible X-rated climbing in a couple spots (if you fell, you'd almost certainly be maimed or worse); onsighting would probably be a good idea. But the climbing is fun and at the very least more engaging than it's better-protected neighbor two climbs to the right.
Anyway, the descriptions in the current guidebooks are adequate to keep you from getting lost so in an effort to preserve a sense of adventure for the full Sandstone Samurai experience, I'll leave it at that.
Have fun and good luck!
He succeeded - Sandstone Samurai is indeed a big step up from Rock Warrior - a route that shouldn't be taken lightly! If you decide to climb it, be prepared for R-rated climbing on every pitch (run outs with falls that would likely result in injury) and possible X-rated climbing in a couple spots (if you fell, you'd almost certainly be maimed or worse); onsighting would probably be a good idea. But the climbing is fun and at the very least more engaging than it's better-protected neighbor two climbs to the right.
Anyway, the descriptions in the current guidebooks are adequate to keep you from getting lost so in an effort to preserve a sense of adventure for the full Sandstone Samurai experience, I'll leave it at that.
Have fun and good luck!
Protection
Single set from the smallest thing you have (000 C3) to 0.75 Camalot. A couple extra cams in the tips through fingers sizes (we brought and used blue through grey Aliens). A set of brass and a set of wires. 10 or so draws/slings. Two ropes. Nut tool for mining out the occasional stopper placement.
Photos
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