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Scarface

5.11a/b, Trad,  Avg: 3.8 from 984 votes
FA: Steve Hong
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Scarface
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

To find this climb, head left when you reach the base of the wall from the approach trail. Look for the perfect finger and thin hands crack.

Protection

Gear for me was as follows: a 1 friend, a purple camalot jr (though a 1.5 friend would have been better), 1 green camalot jr, a 2 friend, 2 red camalots, 2 2.5 friends and 2 gold camalots. If you want to sew it a bit more, bring another 2.5 friend or red camalot and/or a 1 friend. Towards the top, if you're out of hand sized, you can reach to the crack to the right and plug a 1 friend.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Last Light of the Day as the edge of the shadow climbs the wall and the Crack of Scarface as it has done for milenia.
[Hide Photo] Last Light of the Day as the edge of the shadow climbs the wall and the Crack of Scarface as it has done for milenia.
Yet another... Jacob and Seth.
[Hide Photo] Yet another... Jacob and Seth.
one of the more photogenic climbs in the creek... scarface
[Hide Photo] one of the more photogenic climbs in the creek... scarface
Jordan Campbell leading Scarface on a nice day. Oct. 06
[Hide Photo] Jordan Campbell leading Scarface on a nice day. Oct. 06
... and another.
[Hide Photo] ... and another.
What a beauty!  I meant the crack...
[Hide Photo] What a beauty! I meant the crack...
Scarface
[Hide Photo] Scarface
Splitter
[Hide Photo] Splitter
The mandatory Scarface pic
[Hide Photo] The mandatory Scarface pic
Love this climb!
[Hide Photo] Love this climb!
A different view of a classic.
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Benjamin Mackall Photography 
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@mackallphoto
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www.mackallphoto.com
[Hide Photo] A different view of a classic. Benjamin Mackall Photography @mackallphoto www.mackallphoto.com
Such a beautiful line!!! photo cred: C.Treiber
[Hide Photo] Such a beautiful line!!! photo cred: C.Treiber

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11
[Hide Comment] Cams 1.5"-2.5", until it gets wider at the top (take a few 3"). It is mostly 2" once you get off of the ground. THis is green camalot or purple HB (black metolius?) This climb is relentless, but is easier for people with small hands. GO FOR IT. Dec 20, 2001
Jared Brin
Crested Butte, CO
[Hide Comment] I haven't done many routes at IC, or many cracks at all for that matter, but this was a really cool route. The bottom of the route has three or so pods in the crack, and going from the first to the second is much harder is you're short. The hardest part for me was fighting the pump on the thin hands crack after the last pod to a block wedged into the crack. The only downfall is it seems to be the only really good route in the area. Feb 19, 2002
[Hide Comment] Ooo Jared, don't know if I'd agree with you there. There's quite a few really high-quality climbs right around Scarface (Black Uhuru, Where's Carruthers, Wavy Gravy, etc.). I'd submit them, but I'm too much of a wuss to lead them and I won't submit routes I haven't led. Feb 27, 2002
[Hide Comment] This is the most enjoyable single pitch of crack climbing I've ever experienced. Simply a fantastic route. May 13, 2003
[Hide Comment] Obviously Jared hasn't been to the Scarface wall very often. Other than the good routes mentioned by the other person, here are just a few more: Sicilian, Columbian Hitman, Not That Funny, Desert Vaurnet (probably one of the best routes at the Creek)...shall I go on? May 16, 2003
[Hide Comment] One of the three bolts at the anchor wiggles around in your hands. This is the center bolt with a large, rounded edge hangar. The other two bolts seem fine and are adequate for an anchor and getting off (have chains between these two).

Super route and still pumpy with a no-gear to clean top rope. Apr 3, 2006
[Hide Comment] if you have smaller hands, this climb is more of a 5.10. the crux begining is short, and the rest of the crack is stellar hands. Oct 30, 2006
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] The view form here is just awesome! Oct 15, 2007
Joshua Tree Runner
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Agreed with m-earles comments. Its thin hands most of the way then widens some higher up. First 15 ft is slightly overhanging but its hard to tell from photos. It took some cool photos from the top. Will post them later. Nov 26, 2007
Armin hammer
Reno, NV
 
[Hide Comment] was easier for me NOT to tape up on this one, (I have small hands) the inside is quite worn, so your hands won/t actually get too torn up, enjoy. Apr 8, 2008
Ben Griffin
Chattanooga, TN
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] This is a four star route because it is such a striking line at the Scarface Wall. I enjoy this route, but I like the "sicilian" much more. Scarface is another Creek route the grade is depending if you have bigger or smaller hands. The beginning is thin, so big handed people are going to have a harder time. How did this thing get downgraded from 11c to 11-? Aug 9, 2011
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
[Hide Comment] Beautiful line with a fun cruxy start and bomber hands the rest of the way. Once you get past the first 6 meters it's pretty much in the bag and fun as hell. May 3, 2013
[Hide Comment] Tony B is correct. Oct 11, 2019
Joshua Tree Runner
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Climbed again yesterday on TR. the start is protectable, sustained, and overhanging with poor feet. Be ready. Our team pre-clipped the start to avoid grounding. The can be done by standing on the boulder at the base of the climb. Nov 7, 2020
Mitchell McAuslan
Spokane, WA
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] I used BD Camalots #0.4 or #0.5 at bottom, #0.75x(2-3), #1x(2-3), #2x(3-4), #3x(1-2) for top. All depends on how much you want to place. Nov 25, 2023
[Hide Comment] I climbed to the chockstone with: BD #0.4, #0.5, 2x #0.75, 3x #1, and 3x #2. This felt amply protected to me.
From the chockstone to the anchors I used two BD #3s, but they got in the way of my climbing and weren’t the most inspiring placements. I would have preferred more #2s OR some nuts and small cams. There are plenty of nut/small cam placements behind chockstones or in the neighboring thin crack. Oct 1, 2024