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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes
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(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1- |
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Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 |
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Fire and Ice T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Private Idaho S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Scary Canary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wasabeline S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: |
Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(7) |
| FA: | Roger & Bill Briggs |
| Page Views: | 13,091 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on May 29, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Surprised that this classic route is not in the database. A Eldorado classic with very hard and very different pitches.
Pitch 1: Start just right of the "Lower Ramp" and make a hard move to gain a short, obtuse, right-facing corner. Layback up the corner making a hard moves (use to be a pin in place) to gain a rotten band. Traverse left with good gear #2 1/2 #3 Friends on somewhat loose holds to a right-facing flake. Place gear in the flake and move up and left past two old 1/4-inch bolts on slopey holds (scary) and up to the belay.
Pitch 2: Start as for "The Wisdom" but where that route goes right continue up and slightly left into a very intimidating, overhanging dihedral. Things are about to get ugly. Stem up the dihedral using small gear (2&3 RPs) to the crux move about eight feet below the roof. Do a wild stemming and palming (crux) move and reach a good bucket and rest below roof. After a good rest, crank out the roof on fairly good holds and power up the headwall past two bolt (5.10+). The climbing becomes easy (5.8) past the bolts and soon reach Le Toit at the easy traverse. Go left to the Le Toit belay (and rap the route) or right and follow Le Toit to the upper ramp.
Great route and lots of good hard climbing packed in its two pitches. "A Briggs classic".
Pitch 1: Start just right of the "Lower Ramp" and make a hard move to gain a short, obtuse, right-facing corner. Layback up the corner making a hard moves (use to be a pin in place) to gain a rotten band. Traverse left with good gear #2 1/2 #3 Friends on somewhat loose holds to a right-facing flake. Place gear in the flake and move up and left past two old 1/4-inch bolts on slopey holds (scary) and up to the belay.
Pitch 2: Start as for "The Wisdom" but where that route goes right continue up and slightly left into a very intimidating, overhanging dihedral. Things are about to get ugly. Stem up the dihedral using small gear (2&3 RPs) to the crux move about eight feet below the roof. Do a wild stemming and palming (crux) move and reach a good bucket and rest below roof. After a good rest, crank out the roof on fairly good holds and power up the headwall past two bolt (5.10+). The climbing becomes easy (5.8) past the bolts and soon reach Le Toit at the easy traverse. Go left to the Le Toit belay (and rap the route) or right and follow Le Toit to the upper ramp.
Great route and lots of good hard climbing packed in its two pitches. "A Briggs classic".
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