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Separate Reality
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 132
votes
Routes in Ak. Wildcat Falls & Above the Cookie
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Adventures With Linda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Edge of Absurdity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Separate Reality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tales of Power T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Through Bein' Cool T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Ron Kauk, et al, 1978 |
| Page Views: | 83,231 total · 374/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Oct 16, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Separate Reality is the photogenic, quintessential Yosemite roof climb. It's short, aesthetic, athletic, and buckets o' fun.
Take Hwy 120 out of the Valley and after going through two short tunnels, park at a paved pullout immediately before the third, long tunnel. Hike up the road to the mouth of this tunnel, jump over the stone wall, and follow a steep track down the cliff for 3 minutes. This deposits you at the top of the Separate Reality visor. At the top of the slab use the bolted anchor to fix a line and do a short (80') rap down to a staging area at the base of the climb.
It's pretty obvious: Climb the steep lieback flake to a stance, then bust out the 20' roof to a wild series of moves at the lip.
Protection
If you want to lead this on gear, I recommend a #3 Camalot for the belayer, a #1 and a #4 Camalot for the initial lieback section, and then a #3, a pair of #2s, a #1, and a 0.75 for the crack itself. However, a much easier option is to bring four or five hexes and long slings: One can easily pre-load the crack by dropping the hexes down in from above. One person should rap in first to direct this procedure.
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