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South and East Faces Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in South and East Faces

L › R R › L A › Z

	Animal Cracker Land T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Best Crack in Minnesota T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bittersweet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Bon Homme Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dancing With The Devils After Dark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3-4 R
	Danse Macabre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Delta I T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Direct Southeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Double Indemnity T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dusk In Dogtown T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	El Cracko Diablo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Free Association T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Hollywood & Vine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	interesting problem below, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Let Me Go Wild T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Phillip's Retreat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Recidivism T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
	Roach Addition T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rocksuckers S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Soler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Soler Eclipse S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	TAD T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Walt Bailey Memorial T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Windex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3
	Window, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Elevation:	4,601 ft	1,402 m
GPS:	44.58986, -104.71457 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Peter Gram on Jul 6, 2002 · Updates
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE

The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.

Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.

Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…

Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.

Description

The South and East Faces both share the same approach. The South and East face routes are very popular, perhaps because they end up at the meadows. Once at the meadows, it is easy to top out. The most climbed routes on the tower (besides Durrance) are on the East face, including Soler and Tad. The South face also holds some popular routes, including Bon Homme Variation and Walt Bailey. Most routes are 2 long pitches to the meadows, with Walt Bailey being only one pitch. Rappel off the meadows chain anchors with two ropes for 3 rappels to reach the ground. Also, some routes have their own set of rap anchors.

Getting There

From the Devil's Tower parking lot, take the paved trail towards the tower. Take a right when the trail forks, and follow this trail around towards the south face. Look for a climber's trail taking off up towards the tower when you see a viewing tube (for looking at the old wooden ladder near Bon Homme). Follow this good trail up to some slabs near Durrance, then climb up and to the right, following the slabs around the tower. From here, it depends which route you are doing as to how far to go. Some of these approach rocks are really slick, so be careful with heavy loads.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South and East Faces

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 103 ● TAD Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 123 ● Bon Homme Variation Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 287 ● El Cracko Diablo Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 400 ● Soler Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 300 ● Walt Bailey Memorial Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 5 ● Cave Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 78 ● Hollywood & Vine Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 31 ● Dusk In Dogtown Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 4 ● Danse Macabre Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 12 ● Double Indemnity Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 33 ● Soler Eclipse Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 4 ● Rocksuckers Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 12 ● Direct Southeast Trad 2 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 9 ● Animal Cracker Land Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 4 ● Let Me Go Wild Trad