Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Third Flatiron
|
1911 Gully T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Blazing Biners T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Dog's Head Cutoff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
|
|
East Face (Standard) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
East Face Left T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Exit Through The Gift Shop V0 4 |
|
|
Extra Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
|
|
Fail Safe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Falcon's Fracture T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Feathers and Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Flailure (Is Not an Option) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
|
|
Friday's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Funny Games T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
|
|
Greenman's Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R |
|
|
Holier than Thou S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Inner Sanctum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Misled Youth T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
More Mellow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Negative Space (P1) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Northwest Passage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Panda Rigolo S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Panda Scat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Pandammic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Pentaprance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
Ph.D. Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Pile In the Sky S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Rite Of Spring T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Saturday's Folly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Sayonara T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Shoyu State S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
South Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
|
|
Southwest Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
|
|
Super Woo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Thin Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Third World Zone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
|
|
Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Waiting For Columbus T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
West Door T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Winky Woo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
|
|
Wrongs of Fall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 9,080 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Aug 26, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023
Details
Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.
Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.
Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:
bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.
Description
The Southwest Chimney is probably the best way off of the Third Flatiron that doesn't involve a rappel. It is NOT a walk-off, nor is it for the faint-of-heart, but if you are experienced and like to solo up Flatirons with just your rock shoes and sunglasses, this is a pretty good way to escape from the summit.
From the top of the Third, downclimb about 50 feet on the east face (the last 50 feet of the standard route) to the giant chockstone that allows easy passage between the Third Flatiron's false summit and actual summit. Traverse onto this chockstone and climb west into the alcove it creates. This leads to the ledge where the second rappel is usually made when rapping off the summit. As you're climbing through this alcove you'll notice an archway of rock to your left. Head through this arch and out to the other side. This will put you on a 10 foot wide ramp on the South side of the of the Third Flatiron that heads steeply downward and towards the East. At the bottom of this ramp, about 100 feet away, is a very large pine tree which is constantly visible. This is your goal. The ramp itself is probably 4th class scrambling. Once at the pine tree you'll see an eye bolt which marks the SW Chimney route and indicates that there is 148' of downclimbing to the ground. Head down and SW into the obvious start of the chimney. This will take you all the way to the ground.
A point of note - the climbing down the chimney is very easy, but it is VERY exposed. A fall would be very, very bad, but the holds are huge and everywhere. Unlike soloing up a Flatiron, you are doing vertical climbing here - but the climbing is indeed very easy (never exceeding 5.4) - it's just a much higher fear factor.
Once at the bottom, you can descend south of the Third Flatiron to a trail, or hike up and around the back of it to the usual descent trail. I can't imagine anyone every wanting to UP-climb this route... but I'm sure it's possible.
From the top of the Third, downclimb about 50 feet on the east face (the last 50 feet of the standard route) to the giant chockstone that allows easy passage between the Third Flatiron's false summit and actual summit. Traverse onto this chockstone and climb west into the alcove it creates. This leads to the ledge where the second rappel is usually made when rapping off the summit. As you're climbing through this alcove you'll notice an archway of rock to your left. Head through this arch and out to the other side. This will put you on a 10 foot wide ramp on the South side of the of the Third Flatiron that heads steeply downward and towards the East. At the bottom of this ramp, about 100 feet away, is a very large pine tree which is constantly visible. This is your goal. The ramp itself is probably 4th class scrambling. Once at the pine tree you'll see an eye bolt which marks the SW Chimney route and indicates that there is 148' of downclimbing to the ground. Head down and SW into the obvious start of the chimney. This will take you all the way to the ground.
A point of note - the climbing down the chimney is very easy, but it is VERY exposed. A fall would be very, very bad, but the holds are huge and everywhere. Unlike soloing up a Flatiron, you are doing vertical climbing here - but the climbing is indeed very easy (never exceeding 5.4) - it's just a much higher fear factor.
Once at the bottom, you can descend south of the Third Flatiron to a trail, or hike up and around the back of it to the usual descent trail. I can't imagine anyone every wanting to UP-climb this route... but I'm sure it's possible.
7 Comments