All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Fisher Towers > Ancient Art

Stolen Chimney

Name: Stolen Chimney
Rating: 3.7

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British A0

Routes in Ancient Art

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	Hippie Route (North Summit), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0+ R
	Stolen Chimney T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
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Type:	Trad, Aid, 4 pitches
FA:	FA: Sibley and Roos 1969
Page Views:	200,609 total · 708/month
Shared By:	Andrew Gram on Oct 18, 2001 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This is by far the most popular route in the Fisher Towers, and a moderate classic. The route goes at 5.8 A0 if yarding on bolts, or can be free climbed at well protected 5.10.

P1. Climb easy 5.4 broken rock to a huge ledge. If you are free climbing the route, belay here to avoid rope drag. Climb a 4 bolt ladder to a big belay ledge at the base of a chimney. 5.10, 120 feet.

P2. Climb a really fun and well protected 5.8 mud chimney for about 90 feet to a belay on the right.

P3. Climb a short steep crack to a 3 bolt ladder. 5.7 A0 or 5.10, 40 feet.

P4. This is one of the coolest pitches in the desert. Walk 20 feet along the sidewalk(narrow extremely exposed ledge). Mantle awkwardly onto the diving board, and walk to the base of the corkscrew. Clip 4 bolts/drilled angles en route to the summit.

To descend, lower back to the diving board, and reverse the sidewalk. Rappel to the party ledge, and then make a double rope rap to the ground (60m ropes). It is also possible to rappel the route with a 70m rope, but it is not recommended as you'll be a nuisance and danger to ascending parties.

Protection

1 set of cams to 3 inches, 1 set of stoppers, first 5 tricams are nice, quickdraws. The first, third, and 4th pitches have old bolts and drilled angles.

Sam Sez

Ancient Art's Stolen Chimney is not a sport climb and should not be attempted by any climber who is not very comfortable climbing 5.10.

There are places on each pitch where if you fall you will likely die. At the very least you will be badly hurt.

The replaced bolts are nothing more than than a modern version of what the original ascent party had. They can be manipulated by people or damaged by the elements in such a way that they are not safe.

For this reason any climber attempting this route, or any other non-sport climb for that matter, should assume that their most trusted piece of protection is their ability to NOT fall. Climbing is dangerous. Its even more dangerous in the Fisher Towers. Do not approach this route with a sense that it is easy.

Sam Lightner, Jr.