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Strictly From Nowhere
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.4 from 582
votes
Routes in d. Strictly - The Ceiling
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Anguish T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Ceiling Without, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Ceiling, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Gaston T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Midnight Cowboy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Synchronized Sphincters T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Art Gran, Jim Andress, 1959 |
| Page Views: | 24,460 total · 106/month |
| Shared By: | Guy H. on Feb 23, 2006 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
The large roof on the first pitch is the main reason to climb this route. It's a blast!
P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.
P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.
P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6, courtesy of Larry Hamilton).
Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.
P1: Climb to the right of a small tiered overhang near the ground. Wander up, aiming generally left towards the right-facing dihedral (the original route belayed here), then head up steep rock into the left-facing corner/roof. Work up into the roof, then escape right to the bolts (and protect your follower(s)!). Belay at bolts. 5.7, 100'.
P2: Follow the crack above to a right-facing dihedral and a sling belay at a tree. 5.4, 70'.
P2: Or for a better, more consistent 2nd pitch, follow the thin crack up to a tiny tree, then move up and left on hero holds through small overhangs to the top. Good pro, fun moves, more exposure (5.6, courtesy of Larry Hamilton).
Rap the route with one rope. There are bolts at the P1 belay.
Location
The Strictly's access trail is where the East Trapps Connector trail meets the carriage road, about a 5-min. walk from the Uberfall.
This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of The Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.
This route starts almost directly above the access trail's end, on the face 25' left of the right-facing dihedral of The Ceiling, directly below a small tiered overhang.
Link-ups
Strictly from Nowhere itself is classic enough - but there are several link-up opportunities that add even more value:
1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.
2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of The Ceiling, if the crowds allow.
1) For a more-challenging start, climb the initial corner of Oscar and Charlie, just to the left, then aim towards the Strictly roof.
2) After the first pitch, you can traverse up and right (5.4) and belay at pins to link to the third pitch of The Ceiling, if the crowds allow.
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