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Supercrack of the Desert (aka Luxury Liner)

5.10, Trad, 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 1,452 votes
FA: Earl Wiggins, Ed Webster, Bryan Becker 11/1976
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

This route is, well, super.

Originally named Luxury Liner, this line has adopted the name Super Crack. Climb up the side of the detached flake (1.5 or 2 Friend) through the awkward crux (maybe 10c) to a top-of-the-flake ledge right below the crack. Although decent gear is available, groundfalls have occurred here, so heads-up. Climb the crack (sustained 5.9) for 80 feet, past the roof to a bolted anchor. While I typically don't like to give away the detailed beta, I'll make an exception here: hand jam, foot jam, hand jam, foot jam ... The crack widens a bit for the last 15 feet, so depending on the size of your mitts, you may have to revise this beta to include a cupped hand or two, and maybe even a fist.

A 60m rope will just barely reach from the anchor for the rappel/TR. While it probably goes without saying, TR through draws and not the anchor.

New full-length film from Rock and Ice on the first ascent of this line: rockandice.com/videos/climb…

Protection

One 1.5 or 2 Friend, 5 or 6 #3 Friends, and 2 or 3 #4 Friends. A blue TCU can also be used for additional pro on the crux.

Location

Hike up to Supercrack Buttress and find the largest queue. If this doesn't help you locate the route, look left of the ruins, finding the obvious splitter hand crack above a large flake, going through a small roof and cleaving the blank face above in an unbroken line another 60 feet or so above the roof. An impressive line that's hard to miss.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Me leading Supercrack back in 1982
[Hide Photo] Me leading Supercrack back in 1982
Out of the mid-morning shadow.
[Hide Photo] Out of the mid-morning shadow.
BD sponser climber Kenedy climbin the SC on Hexes.  During the International climbers meet.  Photo by Trask Bradbury
[Hide Photo] BD sponser climber Kenedy climbin the SC on Hexes. During the International climbers meet. Photo by Trask Bradbury
Standard Belay for the day...Halloween 2012
[Hide Photo] Standard Belay for the day...Halloween 2012
This is Tom rose leading Supercrack of the Desert.
[Hide Photo] This is Tom rose leading Supercrack of the Desert.
The Bomber Lilac FatCam!!
[Hide Photo] The Bomber Lilac FatCam!!
Original name of this climb. If you see this piece o'art you've arrived!!
[Hide Photo] Original name of this climb. If you see this piece o'art you've arrived!!
Ubercrak
[Hide Photo] Ubercrak
Shadowboxing on SuperCrack
[Hide Photo] Shadowboxing on SuperCrack
Supercrack
[Hide Photo] Supercrack
Sponsored climber for BD Kennedy on SC with Hexes.  Photo was taken by Trask Bradbury inside the chimney at the international climbers meet
[Hide Photo] Sponsored climber for BD Kennedy on SC with Hexes. Photo was taken by Trask Bradbury inside the chimney at the international climbers meet
Jorden succumbing to her crack habit!
[Hide Photo] Jorden succumbing to her crack habit!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] While getting onto the pedestal is definitely the technical crux, the hardest part for me is just enduring to the anchors. I have relatively small hands and the #3 Camalot-sized crack feels insecure and drains me. I think this is a MUCH harder crack than the Incredible Hand Crack (which is trivial except for the overhanging twenty foot section) and much harder than the perfect #2 Camalot crack of Generic Crack. I also find it harder than any other 5.10 crack that I have done in this area - mainly because of my hand size, but also because there is no chance for rest (unlike many of other 5.10 cracks like Generic Hand Crack, IHC, Gorilla Crack, Keyhole Flake, etc.) Hence, I think the crack itself is solid 5.10, not 5.9. Your hand size (and opinion) will vary, of course. Nov 29, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Those of us with big hands find Incredible Hand Crack (IHC) technically harder. Supercrack is way enduro, but I find I can hand jam it all the way (although the start is thin hands and I am really cupped out near the anchors). The crux of IHC is short (relatively), but it is desperate thin hands for me. I have heard that IHC is slowly getting wider (and likely Supercrack too), so in 10 years or so the ratings may have to be revised! Nov 29, 2001
Darin Lang
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Bill, Mike, and George all make excellent points, consistent with my own limited experience at Indian Creek. It seems that adding letter grades to the routes at IC wouldn't really give any useful information, and most of the route submissions on this site so far seem to recognize this. As far as Supercrack goes, I think the best consensus is that it is "5.10". Some may think it is 10a, some may think it's 10d+. Strangely, everyone would be right. Nov 30, 2001
Charles Vernon
Colorado megalopolis
 
[Hide Comment] I wouldn't enjoy leading Supercrack with the gear list in this description. #3 friends are only really nice for the first 30 ft. or so of the crack proper. After that they get pretty tipped out, and 3.5 friends fit much better, if a little tight. But 3 camalots are absolutely perfect for the final 50 feet and I'd recommend bringing more of that thatn any other piece if you can get it.

I would add that the climber in the photo below seems to be carrying an awful lot of #3 camalots! Feb 2, 2002
Darin Lang
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Now, Charles ... "heavy and slow" is our motto. I followed Bernard up this climb (he of the oversized rack in the photo below), and he placed exactly 3 #3 Camalots. The first was quite tight, and a #2 (Camalot) would have worked. Nonetheless, you're probably right, and I should modify my gear beta above by recommending that you take 3 or 4 #4 Friends, and two 3.5 Friends.

Or ... just take 5 or 6 #3 Camalots. As Charles notes, these fit better than anything in the upper section of the climb. Apr 1, 2002
[Hide Comment] the first move is solid 10c the next 10 feet is a debatable 9+ with the next three moves a solid 10a. The following eleven moves are 10b/c, with moves 15-37 10b. moves 37-42 are 10b as well. May 17, 2002
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Additional beta: this is a good climb to wear a long sleeved shirt. Better yet, tape it around your wrists, so that when you show up at work the next day you don't have to explain those nasty scabs covering the insides of your wrists and forearms. Aug 19, 2002
Braxton Norwood
Billings Montana
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] I agree, getting to the pedestal = technical crux. Just blast through it. I don't suggest getting pumped early by placing anything; it's not that high anyway. Like all splitter cracks, this one is hand-size dependent. If you have larger-than-average hands, you'll cruise the top 1/3. If you have normal hands (perfect for Incredible Hand Crack), you'll find the top section to be a bit of a beyatch. Heavy on the #1-#3 Camalots.

Oh yea, OVER-RATED. Feb 4, 2007
evan
seattle
 
[Hide Comment] i'll start off by saying i haven't done a great deal of climbing in indian creek: but i did truly enjoy leading this route. in my opinion, it is definitely a classic and a must climb for the creek.
a lot of climbers have added good and valid info about this climb, some of which i agree with, some of which i don't. that's the double edged sword of mountainproject- everyone can speak their mind, but don't ever take anything on this site as absolute.
it is my opinion that:
getting onto the pedestal is the technical crux.
protect the technical crux as to not hit the ground (#2 with a runner works well, avoids rope drag)
if your hands are perfect for incredible hand crack- this will feel bigger
if so-wear long sleeves or go to work with nasty scabs (but be proud!)
before the roof- #2 camalots fit perfectly
after the roof you won't need anything but #3 camalots- i think i had 5
have fun Jun 20, 2007
Joshua Tree Runner
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
 
[Hide Comment] my favorite route at the Creek. i always come here and climb this at least once. endurance is the key. Nov 26, 2007
percious
Bear Creek, CO
[Hide Comment] Here is a link to a video of Catherine Destivelle soloing this impressive climb:

youtube.com/watch?v=nGNfeVA…

Beautiful to watch. Scary though.

-chris Jan 17, 2008
[Hide Comment] Brian Becker and Ed Webster were also part of the first ascent party. Jul 29, 2008
Jaaron Mankins
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] This thing really is a beauty. Last two times on it, we were the only ones in the lot. The new plaque is very nice, there was also a new plaque by Coyne Crack. Aug 13, 2008
slim

  5.10b
[Hide Comment] the plaque is pretty unnecessary. earl is probably rolling over in his grave. Aug 14, 2008
Buster Jesik
Estes Park, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] The new plaque is beautiful, leave it alone. If this isn't a 4 star pitch I don't know what is. Oct 27, 2008
Bingman
Arden Hills, MN
  5.10
[Hide Comment] As I understand it, this was first done as a two pitch route. Anyone have beta on P2? Are there anchors up top? Does the rock stay good? Grade? Gear? Thanks! Nov 14, 2008
[Hide Comment] A #2 camalot and a yellow mastercam protect the technical crux at the bottom. Once in the crack, a #2 will work for about 10 feet after the roof. Also, crowds weren't a problem, I didn't see many people near supercrack. Dec 3, 2008
JoergB
Germany
[Hide Comment] I did this '91 and I remember that it should have even 3 pitches. I also did the 2nd pitch, and it was wider (fist and ow) but easier, so I did not mind that only one of my friends was usable as pro. The 3rd pitch was finger crack, supposed to be 5.11, and as I had absolutely no gear for that, I did not attempt it. There was another abseil bolt at the end of P2. Mar 11, 2009
Sean Wolf
Denver, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] I was pretty intimidated attempting this climb as a my 2nd trad lead. I blew a clip under the roof and landed on the pedestal. But I got back up and eventually finished. I was so pumped that while trying to clip the chains my hands slipped and took a pretty deece whip. Good thing it was the last climb of the trip because I was completely exhausted afterwords. Jun 8, 2009
[Hide Comment] The third pitch of Supercrack is excellent. Bring triples of #00 and #0 tcus and doubles of the other small sizes and you'll be protected. I would call this one of the better Wingate stemming corners. The crack is too small for your fingertips but there are lots of small holds and the rock is perfect so the tiny cams seem good to whip on. Go straight up off the belay, through the thin crux and to a stance where you can either go straight up on crumbly rock with no gear or traverse left on a ramp and head up the next crack system. I went left. Once you summit, you can walk back right and rap straight down the plumb line of the first two and a half pitches. There are two fixed anchors above the one everyone usually stops at. Bring two ropes. Nov 6, 2009
Hamlet73
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] This route seem to get bigger every passing year. It seems to take mostly #2 until right after the roof and then #3 BD Camalots to the anchors. It is wide for me after the roof, and I cannot use fists until the very top.

Much Harder than IHC. Nov 18, 2009
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Hard to grade even in (or especially in) the UK system, so simply 5.10 is the best call. Technical crux in the first 20' would be worth UK HVS 5b. The individual moves on the main crack are probably no more than UK 4c but it goes on for so long - arms programmed for the maximum 40'-50' length of gritstone cracks (like mine) just give up! Oct 16, 2010
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Like everyone says. Wide hands, wide hands, wide hands. Bring a lot of blues and a couple yellows for the very start of the crack. I protected the boulder problem start with a yellow c4 before the move and a yellow alien after it (my friend used a #4 after it).

Beautiful crack. Our last climb of the trip and it was just fun fun fun to the anchors. Use your feet! Apr 20, 2012
Ross Hokett
Great Falls, MT
[Hide Comment] this is an excellent pitch if you have large hands to me was much easier than the generic crack. The starting flake was by far the hardest part for me off the ledge a few #2's and then #3's the rest of the way up. Jun 26, 2012
NickinCO
colorado
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Great climb. I didn't feel the opening moves were any harder than 5.9. Maybe harder for shorter people, I'm 6'1 Oct 10, 2012
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
[Hide Comment] The beginning is defiantly the technical crux of the route. Very greasy but well protected. The first 20ft is perfect #2 thru the roof then it opens up to #3 and becomes pumpy. Good climb, though I suggest hitting it in the AM when the sun is not so bad. Oct 13, 2012
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] +1 for defiant cruxes. They're the shit. Oct 13, 2012
AST
[Hide Comment] I did this route just once, in 1996 or 1997 or so. I led it onsight, by the light of the full moon and my headlamp (no led lamps back then, sadly).

I could swear the guide at the time listed it as 5.9 or 5.9+. So, I took a pretty casual attitude towards it. I remember being sketched out of my mind on the moves up onto the pedestal. In no small part because I could not see what I was doing at all. The moonlight was blocked, and those old school little headlamps were weak sauce.

After 20 minutes of hemming and hawing, up and down, I finally committed and got past that part. The rest of it was a pretty surreal experience. I don't remember the crack proper feeling any harder than say, Reed's direct. But, I have big meaty hands.

I do remember thinking the whole experience felt very hard for 5.9, but I chalked that one up to doing without sunlight.

The next night we did the Kor Ingalls in the same style. That was a very interesting road trip. Jan 29, 2014
Moritz B.
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Does Anyone have beta on pitch three and about getting off the cliff? Do you rappell the route? Nov 10, 2014
Ryan Arnold
SLC
  5.10
[Hide Comment] I only brought 2 #2 camalots and it wasn't enough for me. I'd want to place a #2 in the initial corner about 10 feet up, then four in the first 30 feet of the crack proper. If I do this again, I'll bring:

one finger sized cam
five #2 camalots
four #3 camalots, more if I don't have #3.5
2-3 #3.5 or #4 Dec 15, 2014
[Hide Comment] I brought 5 #3s, and that felt about right. I personally would not want to climb it with fewer #3s. Apr 20, 2015
Walter Galli
Las vegas
[Hide Comment] Amazing, I was born in 1976, the best looking crack ever... Oct 9, 2016
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] A #4 does not fit in the crack until you reach the pod that is level with the anchors. It is 2-3" the entire way. Although the #4 is nice to have as the exit move to the chains is a bit cruxy--especially if you are pumped out.

For someone at their limit who places frequently, I would recommend (1) 0.5), (1) 0.75, (4) #2, (8) #3, and (1) #4. The 0.5 and 0.75 just give you more options to protect the crux down low. Great route. Dec 11, 2017
Steve Miller
West Jordan
 
[Hide Comment] Supercrack was a life changing experience for me. I climbed it today on my first day at the creek. I also enjoyed 3 other lines but this one put me over the edge! 10 stars. Absolutely my favorite pitch ever! Nov 18, 2018
Maximilian Dunham
Portland, ME
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Amazing climb. One of my favorites at the grade. I consider it 10c due to the stiff crux off the deck and the length of the route. After the crux, pull through the roof and then its jammers to the anchors. You're gonna want to go nude for this one... Oct 7, 2019
[Hide Comment] Earl Wiggins named this Luxury Liner. Jun 16, 2020
ColeG3 Gardner
  5.10
[Hide Comment] I found this route to be really good but quite an enduro fest for my particular hand size, which I would characterize as slightly smaller than ideal for this crack size (mostly #3's). There's only one true crux, which is down low getting over the bulge. A small #0.5 camalot or two placed behind the buldge should be adequate. Make sure your belayer keeps you tight here while you're close to the ground (duh). The main crack starts at the ledge with perfect #2's and widens to #3's above the mini roof till you get to the pod near the top where a #4 is nice to protect the final move up to the anchor, which is 3 bolts with chains and rings. I'm far from a crack afficionado, but I found some rhythm and success on the upper wide hands portion by reaching deeper into the crack and using more of my forearm instead of just a cupped hand. If you don't have big hands, it could be worth some extra tape on your forearms or wearing sleeves. All in all, this is a really aesthetic line that is a good entry into the bigger hand sizes. Nov 2, 2020
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
  5.10
[Hide Comment] A buried #0.4 at at the bottom protects crux well.

There is absolutely no reason to bring a #4. You can easily clip one of the chains before the pod. Nov 5, 2020
[Hide Comment] It should be noted that any and all commentary is subjective and reflects the experience of the climber writing the post. That said, it’s also important to represent factual information accurately. The route is three pitches and if done to the rim is 5.11. The first pitch is the 5.10 pitch and nowhere on it can a #4 cam be placed. Here is where I will insert my subjective assessment of the opening corner/flake section. In the Gunks this would be rated 5.9+\5.10-. The crack itself is no harder then 5.9 but is 5.9 from the first move to the last and thus deserves a 5.10 grade. Such is my opinion only. Lastly, the proper name of the route is Luxury Liner as named by its first ascentionist Earl Wiggins in a ‘70’s ascent well ahead of its time.
Thoughts are welcome. Sep 29, 2021
Tyler Phillips
Cottonwood Heights, UT
[Hide Comment] "In the Gunks" *insert eyeroll* Sep 30, 2021
Kyle Broxterman
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] I run a POV climbing channel and filmed the entire first pitch. Click the link for the HD widescreen experience.

youtu.be/D03ql-ErEIc

Hit the BETA button if you liked the video. May 27, 2022
Connor Dobson
Louisville, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] .5 at the bottom,
2 at the roof
3x 3s for the crack (or just don't fall) Jun 5, 2022
ABB
[Hide Comment] Do we have a Wiggins peer who can shed light on Earl's name for this route. The feature was referred to as 'Supercrack' long before it was climbed. I wouldn't be surprised if Earl's inspiration came from a Gram Parsons song, Luxury Liner, written in '68 and made popular by Gram's good friend Emmylou Harris with her album of the same name, released in '76, when Earl steeled himself and worked his magic on this line. While the crack is super, the unimaginative adopted name denies the FA's intent.

I imagine Earl being amused at some point by the relative ease with which he was able to climb this, cruising along, as if aboard a Luxury Liner. In deference to Earl - 'Luxury Liner'. Feb 1, 2023
[Hide Comment] Had the entire creek to ourselves. It is mid July but still bare-able heat. The buttress is shaded until about noon anyway. I did notice that someone left behind a #3 bd about 50 feet up “Supercrack” that i was not able to pull. So i guess theres some free pro if anyone can manage to get it out. Jul 16, 2023
[Hide Comment] Earl was my uncle Jul 28, 2023
Brad Burns
Story, WY
  5.10
Ryan Moser
Lakewood, CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] After reading the comments about the starting pillar I was expecting much worse. It's well protected and 5.9ish. Nov 19, 2024
Stu Hopkins
Logan, UT
 
[Hide Comment] 3 pitch beta - I cannot say I'd recommend going above the seam on p3, but if you do here's some info.

p2 sews up with the same rack as the first pitch. No need for the 4 as you can place plenty of 2's and 3's deep in the crack. Pretty burly but I really liked it. Anchor is a little sus but has 1 good bolt and the drilled angles seem good enough but we backed it up with a .5 in case of factor 2 on the next pitch.

p3 felt much harder than 5.11 to me compared to others I did this trip. With that said it is stellar and is well worth trying. You can easily stitch it up with 2x0.2, 3x0.1 z4's. After that we traversed right into a chimney system. It was EXTREMELY loose. You could go straight up, but it looked unprotectable. The right chimney turned out to also be unprotectable, but it was much more secure (I got a decent bd 1 and 3 in the back of the chimney in suspect rock and was the only pro I believed might hold). Sending rock down on this pitch was almost a given. We got extremely lucky we had the entire climb to ourselves and didn't put anybody's lives in danger when a bomber looking lip blew on the rappel and gashed my partners leg. If it is a normal day with multiple parties at the bottom, please do not attempt p3 above the seam.

For the rappel, the anchors on p3 seemed fine to us, they are still 1/2" wedge bolts but appeared bomber by inspection. You need a full 70m rope (we hit our knots at the anchor on simul rappel) but you are fine without a tagline. Again, pulling the rope dislodged a few more rocks as the pillar below the the anchor is a sandcastle and you're pulling your rope across it so make sure nobody is below! If you've read this far, go get on it. The rim was cool, you just have to fight some choss to get there. Just know what you're getting into and make sure you're not dropping rocks on the inevitable parties beneath. Dec 2, 2024