Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit:
facebook.com/friendsofindia… saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2… 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Boulder, CO
Colorado megalopolis
I would add that the climber in the photo below seems to be carrying an awful lot of #3 camalots! Feb 2, 2002
Or ... just take 5 or 6 #3 Camalots. As Charles notes, these fit better than anything in the upper section of the climb. Apr 1, 2002
Boulder, CO
Billings Montana
Oh yea, OVER-RATED. Feb 4, 2007
seattle
a lot of climbers have added good and valid info about this climb, some of which i agree with, some of which i don't. that's the double edged sword of mountainproject- everyone can speak their mind, but don't ever take anything on this site as absolute.
it is my opinion that:
getting onto the pedestal is the technical crux.
protect the technical crux as to not hit the ground (#2 with a runner works well, avoids rope drag)
if your hands are perfect for incredible hand crack- this will feel bigger
if so-wear long sleeves or go to work with nasty scabs (but be proud!)
before the roof- #2 camalots fit perfectly
after the roof you won't need anything but #3 camalots- i think i had 5
have fun Jun 20, 2007
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Bear Creek, CO
youtube.com/watch?v=nGNfeVA…
Beautiful to watch. Scary though.
-chris Jan 17, 2008
Durango, CO
Estes Park, CO
Arden Hills, MN
Germany
Denver, CO
Boulder, CO
Much Harder than IHC. Nov 18, 2009
Cheshire, UK
Squamish
Beautiful crack. Our last climb of the trip and it was just fun fun fun to the anchors. Use your feet! Apr 20, 2012
Great Falls, MT
colorado
Bellingham, WA
Small Lake, UT
I could swear the guide at the time listed it as 5.9 or 5.9+. So, I took a pretty casual attitude towards it. I remember being sketched out of my mind on the moves up onto the pedestal. In no small part because I could not see what I was doing at all. The moonlight was blocked, and those old school little headlamps were weak sauce.
After 20 minutes of hemming and hawing, up and down, I finally committed and got past that part. The rest of it was a pretty surreal experience. I don't remember the crack proper feeling any harder than say, Reed's direct. But, I have big meaty hands.
I do remember thinking the whole experience felt very hard for 5.9, but I chalked that one up to doing without sunlight.
The next night we did the Kor Ingalls in the same style. That was a very interesting road trip. Jan 29, 2014
SLC
one finger sized cam
five #2 camalots
four #3 camalots, more if I don't have #3.5
2-3 #3.5 or #4 Dec 15, 2014
Las vegas
Phoenix, AZ
For someone at their limit who places frequently, I would recommend (1) 0.5), (1) 0.75, (4) #2, (8) #3, and (1) #4. The 0.5 and 0.75 just give you more options to protect the crux down low. Great route. Dec 11, 2017
West Jordan
Portland, ME
San Mateo, CA
There is absolutely no reason to bring a #4. You can easily clip one of the chains before the pod. Nov 5, 2020
Thoughts are welcome. Sep 29, 2021
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Las Vegas, NV
youtu.be/D03ql-ErEIc
Hit the BETA button if you liked the video. May 27, 2022
Louisville, CO
2 at the roof
3x 3s for the crack (or just don't fall) Jun 5, 2022
I imagine Earl being amused at some point by the relative ease with which he was able to climb this, cruising along, as if aboard a Luxury Liner. In deference to Earl - 'Luxury Liner'. Feb 1, 2023
Story, WY
Lakewood, CO
Logan, UT
p2 sews up with the same rack as the first pitch. No need for the 4 as you can place plenty of 2's and 3's deep in the crack. Pretty burly but I really liked it. Anchor is a little sus but has 1 good bolt and the drilled angles seem good enough but we backed it up with a .5 in case of factor 2 on the next pitch.
p3 felt much harder than 5.11 to me compared to others I did this trip. With that said it is stellar and is well worth trying. You can easily stitch it up with 2x0.2, 3x0.1 z4's. After that we traversed right into a chimney system. It was EXTREMELY loose. You could go straight up, but it looked unprotectable. The right chimney turned out to also be unprotectable, but it was much more secure (I got a decent bd 1 and 3 in the back of the chimney in suspect rock and was the only pro I believed might hold). Sending rock down on this pitch was almost a given. We got extremely lucky we had the entire climb to ourselves and didn't put anybody's lives in danger when a bomber looking lip blew on the rappel and gashed my partners leg. If it is a normal day with multiple parties at the bottom, please do not attempt p3 above the seam.
For the rappel, the anchors on p3 seemed fine to us, they are still 1/2" wedge bolts but appeared bomber by inspection. You need a full 70m rope (we hit our knots at the anchor on simul rappel) but you are fine without a tagline. Again, pulling the rope dislodged a few more rocks as the pillar below the the anchor is a sandcastle and you're pulling your rope across it so make sure nobody is below! If you've read this far, go get on it. The rim was cool, you just have to fight some choss to get there. Just know what you're getting into and make sure you're not dropping rocks on the inevitable parties beneath. Dec 2, 2024