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Surrealistic Pillar
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.2 from 805
votes
Routes in Lower Buttress
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A Boy and His Arête T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bear Hug T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Beer Can Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Black Magic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Black Opal T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Pyre T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Blue Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crown Royal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Farce (aka Novitiate's Delight) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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For Real Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Groove, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Hemorroids in Flight T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Novitiate's Nightmare T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pillar of Society S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sinbad-Herbert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Surrealistic Direct Knob Variation T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Surrealistic Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Turkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | K. Edsburg, M. Edsburg, J. Sublette, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 48,563 total · 186/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Aug 28, 2003 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This excellent route ascends the entire length of the Lower Buttress, bringing you up out of the giant forest below and high enough so you think you're way the hell up. Then you top out, and realize that the main wall of Lover's Leap hovers over you, and that you're a mere peon in between the giant walls of horizontal dykes.
For a 5.7, this has an excellent variety of terrian for only 3 pitches.
Accessing the route is easy: Walking up to the Lower Buttress, walk right until you find the first set of bolts. Then walk a little more to the second set of bolts, which is Pillar of Society (.12a). The next crack is the Direct Start of Surrealistic Pillar (.10a), and finally you'll be on a tier with a flat face and a couple of large horns about 15 - 20 feet off the ground. You're here.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the horns, and continue up and left to a well protected crack system to a wide (4") left facing crack.
Pitch 2: Follow this crack up for about 4 dykes, where you need to cross to a large horn. Follow this around the arete, where you can belay from a ledge.
Pitch 3: Simple. Go up the face with large jugs and belay from something suitable up top.
For a 5.7, this has an excellent variety of terrian for only 3 pitches.
Accessing the route is easy: Walking up to the Lower Buttress, walk right until you find the first set of bolts. Then walk a little more to the second set of bolts, which is Pillar of Society (.12a). The next crack is the Direct Start of Surrealistic Pillar (.10a), and finally you'll be on a tier with a flat face and a couple of large horns about 15 - 20 feet off the ground. You're here.
Pitch 1: Climb up to the horns, and continue up and left to a well protected crack system to a wide (4") left facing crack.
Pitch 2: Follow this crack up for about 4 dykes, where you need to cross to a large horn. Follow this around the arete, where you can belay from a ledge.
Pitch 3: Simple. Go up the face with large jugs and belay from something suitable up top.
Photos
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