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The Bastille - W Face Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Bastille - W Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blind Faith T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Blind Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Breakfast in Bed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bridge-it Bardot (aka Hat Trick) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Chance of Rain T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
	Cream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Early Riser, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Hair City T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Implied Consent T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	In Plain Sight T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
	Let Them Eat Cake T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
	Neon Lights T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	New Chautauqua T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Out to Lunge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Out to Lunge ... with Dessert T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Out to Lunge Variation T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Serengeti Spaghetti T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Stem Gem T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Sunset Boulevard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sunshine Daydream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
	Voodoo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	West Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	West Buttress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	West Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	West Face Directissma T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	West Side aka West Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Your Mother S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

The Bastille is a cornerstone of climbing in Eldorado Canyon State Park. According to P. Ament in High Over Boulder this was once called Chimney Rock and may have been named The Bastille by Stan Shepard in 1957. This is the section for the W Face. There is probably little for the lower end difficulty climber nor the high end climber here. The section of the crag provides a wonderful afternoon exposure for the cooler months. Topping out provides a wonderous view of this spirit-elevating canyon.

The legendary, Jim Erickson, elevated himself to the challenge of an onsight, solo, first ascent of Blind Faith on the W face. Today, this remains a crag that holds a special place in the hearts of climbers who have progressed to climb some of the great walls and peaks of the world.

This crag has been a proving grounds for some of Colorado's finest including: Layton Kor, Larry Dalke, Pat Ament, Bob Culp, Stan Shepard, Jim Erickson, Art Higbee, Duncan Ferguson, Kevin Donald, Rob Candelaria, Roger Briggs, David Breashears, Derek Hersey, Ed Webster, Colin Lantz, Chris Archer, among others.

Some of the better routes here include: West Chimney, 5.7; Hair City, 5.9 s; West Buttress, 5.9++; Blind Faith, 5.10a; Rain, 5.10d s; Northwest Corner (see N Face), 5.11a s; Sunset Boulevard, 5.11b/c; & Your Mother, 5.12d.

Note, there is significant amounts of loose rock & flexing flakes on this face.

Descents off the top traverse along an exposed-at-times break/ramp near the top to the N side of the rock and gain a 3rd class ramp down to the Fowler Trail. From here, descend the West Face hiking trail (3rd class near the bottom) back down to the base. A few of the routes have rappel descents, but they are the minority.

Come and climb here, but realize that many share your passion for the experiences found on this stone.

Getting There

Once you enter Eldorado Canyon State Park, you will hopefully find parking within 200 yards in one of two areas. Park. Walk up the road to the obvious bridge across South Boulder Creek. Look up and left. This is The Bastille. The west face is accessed off a 3rd class trail just around the corner and up the steep slope. Be careful in wet conditions, with little ones and, please, no dogs here.

28 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	The Bastille - W Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Bastille - W Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 186 ● West Arete Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 11 ● Blind Side Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 250 ● Breakfast in Bed Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R 101 ● Out to Lunge Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R 517 ● Hair City Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 5 ● Out to Lunge ... with Dessert Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 890 ● Blind Faith Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 442 ● West Buttress Trad 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R 117 ● Rain Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R 15 ● Neon Lights Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 105 ● West Face Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 262 ● Sunset Boulevard Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R 9 ● In Plain Sight Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 78 ● Your Mother Sport

● West Arete

186

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches

● Blind Side

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches

● Breakfast in Bed

250

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

● Out to Lunge

101

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches

● Hair City

517

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 3 pitches

● Out to Lunge ... with Dessert

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad

● Blind Faith

890

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches

● West Buttress

442

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches

● Rain

117

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad

● Neon Lights

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 2 pitches

● West Face

105

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches

● Sunset Boulevard

262

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● In Plain Sight

5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R Trad

● Your Mother

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport

More Classic Climbs in The Bastille - W Face »

Sun & Shade

Sun Angles Details:

Routes Mostly Face: Southwest · West

Sunny Roughly 11am to 8pm during high season

6am

8pm

Details: Most routes are in the sun by late morning, though the classic Blind Faith is more tucked in. In the winter, the sun barely makes it down this far in the canyon, but can hit it in mid-afternoon.