All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress

The Bulge

Name: The Bulge
Rating: 3.0

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R

Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Breed Apart T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Anthill Direct T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
	Anthill/Redguard Traverse T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Archer McLenahan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Back in Black S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Backstroke T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
	Backtalk T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Balance of Terror T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Black Top S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Blackwalk T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Blunt Buttress, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Book of Numbers T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Bulge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Bulge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	C'est La Fin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	C'est La Morte T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	C'est La Vie T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Chromium Shore T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Continue-us T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Crack Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Desdichado T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Dessert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	East Overhang TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	East Side T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Edge of Night, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Exodus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Flakes, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Genesis T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Genuine Risk T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Genuine Risk Takers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	High Noon T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Horizontal Beginnings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	I Can't Copeland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	I Can't Copeland Free T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Je T'Aime T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	La Vie d' Pansey TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
	Lakme T 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a PG13
	Le Boomerang T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Left Side of Roark, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Mental Cruelty TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Night T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
	Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Original Anthill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	PA's Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Pansee Sauvage T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Pilgrim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Pseudo Sidetrack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
	Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Redguard T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Restless Nights T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Semi-Wild T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Semi-Wild Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Shades of Gray T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Slack Walk T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Sticky Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	To Night T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Trinity Cracks T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Vaporizer, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Variation to Lower Meadows T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Walk the Talk T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Whistle Stop, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Whittle Wall, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Whittle Whisk T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 4 pitches Fixed Hardware (10)
FA:	Layton Kor, Ben Chidlaw, 1957.
Page Views:	17,800 total · 61/month
Shared By:	Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This route is a classic face climb on the difficult to protect Bulge Buttress. The line is not obvious from the ground, but it is not too difficult to discern once high on the cliff. The entire climb is easy, but entails many very runout traverses where serious falls could take place. The leader should be confident at the grade and so should the follower, as it is just as dangerous to follow this route as to lead it. Have fun, this route is very unique and I found the most enjoyable part to be finding tons of edges and huecos covering the entire route.

Pitch 1 goes straight up from the bottom of the buttress starting right behind the Whale's Tail. It is runout 5.5 with one fixed pin to a bolted belay.

Pitch 2 traverses right on a horizontal crack under a bulge to the lip. Place your last piece here and run it out all the way back the way you came on a 5.4 ramp. This pitch is about 90 feet but only about 35 feet of elevation are gained.

Pitch 3 traverses right past a bolt and over a bulge before following another easy ramp way back to the left.

Pitch 4 traverses right for about 30 feet until the angle eases off enough to walk off the East Slabs.

Eds. There is a straight up crack-like finish that goes at 5.9.

Protection

All belays are hanging with double bolts. The route is extremely runout, and most of the protection is fixed pins. Bring 6 quickdraws and cams up to a #1 Camalot.

Per Carl Sampurna: you can find placements for small & medium stoppers and cams up to a #2 Camalot. Also, there's at least one placement each for #3 and #4.