All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Real Hidden Valley > Sentinel > Sentinel - W Face

The Centipede

Name: The Centipede
Rating: 3.1

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13

Routes in The Sentinel - West Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Butt Buttress, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Centipede, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
	Chameleon, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Desert Song T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Flared Bear T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Great White Buffalo T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Illusion Dweller T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Medicine Man T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	New Latitude T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Not for Loan T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Some Like It Hot T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Sweep Walkers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Where Eagles Dare T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Where Janitors Dare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Worms in Your Brain T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	Dave Mayville, Paul Borne
Page Views:	2,426 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Drewsky on Dec 16, 2011
Admins:	Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This climb is a punishing example of "real" 5.11d. Begins with a reach move and a mantle to a bolt, followed by a slab with a bit of grain on it. A nice crack then leads up and right. The climbing past the next two bolts provides a fairly difficult thin crux followed by a committing and somewhat scary traverse to join The Chameleon. Run it out a bit more, then finally place some funky but decent cams in a flaring seam and continue up The Chameleon. Better gear soon becomes more abundant, but it must be placed carefully. The flared, grainy crack that guards the end of The Chameleon provides another burly and somewhat heady crux, especially due to it being towards the end, but the fall is pretty clean and there is good if finicky protection. Consensus seems to suggest that this section might actually be the crux, at least when compared to the rest of Centipede. Finish up via the crux of Illusion Dweller.

Location

To the right of Illusion Dweller, locate the first bolt about 15-20 feet up, followed by a crack that diagonals its way up to two more bolts. Rappel with a 60m rope only after the gear has been cleaned. A 70m is much more convenient and allows an easy toprope setup via Illusion Dweller.

Protection

Three bolts (formerly scary old 1/4"; now they look brand new!) and gear to 3 inches. A double set of cams is a good idea, perhaps even with triples in the .4-.75 camalot range. Finishes at the Illusion Dweller anchor. First bolt is 15-20 feet off the deck and the rock quality at the start warrants some care. This route might get close to being "R" rated, but I don't remember it seeming excessively dangerous or runout even after taking a few pretty good wingers on it.