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The Grand Course
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 209
votes
Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Alternate Erikson Start (Roof Wall) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Chris Cross T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grand Course, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Green Sleeves T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jonny Direct, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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One Night Stand T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rabbits From Hats T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Red Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rimmer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sayat-Nova S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Twist and Crawl (aka Slice of Time) S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Zot Face, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, 2 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | FFA - Jim Erickson and John Behrens |
| Page Views: | 11,438 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jul 13, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
First, let me state that I am amazed how many routes in the Eldo data base have 3 stars. Don't let this 2 star rating dissuade you - I'm keeping things in perspective. This route is as good as most of the "3 star" routes in the vicinity.
P1. For the first pitch (10-), you need to be adept at crack climbing. It has a section of wide hands and fists. Also, this short pitch is rather polished, so watch your foot placements carefully. There are a couple of choices for establishing a belay at the end of the first pitch. Take the one that suits you best. We opted to stay low at the first large ledge to avoid the fumes of bird excrement.
P2. Move up into what can best be described as a twin crack system. Take this upward and move right into a right-facing dihedral. This dihedral is mostly thin, but as I mentioned earlier, a #3.5 Friend (or 2) may have worked. I also managed a #1 Camalot, but a #2.5 Friend may have worked a little better. I got a wobbly, but decent nut at a weird block in the crack near the crux. Anyway, you will know when you get to the business. It looked like persons taller than myself may have moved slightly right at the crux. I pretty much had to go straight-up.
My best advice for someone considering this climb is to 1) be able to crack climb; 2) have good footwork, including stemming; and 3) be comfortable doing cruxes a little above your gear.
There is a 5.9 variation, where you stay left/straight above the first pitch. I only glanced at it and it looked good and may protect better than the 11- pitch. A couple parties that did it earlier and did the climb in one pitch.
Erickson's book rated P1 5.9 and P2 10-!
P1. For the first pitch (10-), you need to be adept at crack climbing. It has a section of wide hands and fists. Also, this short pitch is rather polished, so watch your foot placements carefully. There are a couple of choices for establishing a belay at the end of the first pitch. Take the one that suits you best. We opted to stay low at the first large ledge to avoid the fumes of bird excrement.
P2. Move up into what can best be described as a twin crack system. Take this upward and move right into a right-facing dihedral. This dihedral is mostly thin, but as I mentioned earlier, a #3.5 Friend (or 2) may have worked. I also managed a #1 Camalot, but a #2.5 Friend may have worked a little better. I got a wobbly, but decent nut at a weird block in the crack near the crux. Anyway, you will know when you get to the business. It looked like persons taller than myself may have moved slightly right at the crux. I pretty much had to go straight-up.
My best advice for someone considering this climb is to 1) be able to crack climb; 2) have good footwork, including stemming; and 3) be comfortable doing cruxes a little above your gear.
There is a 5.9 variation, where you stay left/straight above the first pitch. I only glanced at it and it looked good and may protect better than the 11- pitch. A couple parties that did it earlier and did the climb in one pitch.
Erickson's book rated P1 5.9 and P2 10-!
Protection
Bring a standard rack at least up to a #4 Friend. A #4 Camalot was placed on the first pitch by my partner. I possibly could have used a #3.5 Friend on the mid/upper part of the 2nd pitch. At the top of the crux pitch, work up and left to a belay tree from which you will need 2 ropes to rappel to the ground. Also, save a 0 TCU/blue Alien for the crux pitch.
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