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Elevation: 1,060 ft 323 m
GPS: 41.74053, -74.18289
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Orphaned User on Feb 26, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

Along the Cliff Suggest change

last area: The Mac Wall | next area: V3 - Middle Earth

Description Suggest change

Major Features: This area features the largest collection of easy multi-pitch routes: Beginner's Delight, Minty, Hawk, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, and Northern Pillar, among others. For that reason, you'll often find local guides busy at work around here, especially at the short wall near the base of Finger Locks or Cedar Box.

This area starts with the huge, right-facing orange corner of Asphodel, and continues past Beginner's Delight, Snooky's Return, Minty, Hawk, and the area's centerpiece route, Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst, which aims right up the middle of the massive orange buttress. To the right, the area includes the routes just before, and in the alcove to the left of, the Mantle Block, a large block leaning against the cliff with a 4' roof extending across it.

Approach: Asphodel and neighboring routes can also be reached by the
.
The main approach for the middle of this area is
, which leads you right up to Minty, which you can recognize through the trees by the large blocks at its base (pic of trail will appear in the spring). Further north is the
.

Descent: There is a bolted rappel line on the rightnorth side of the Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress; a bit of scrambling is necessary to get down to it. Many routes also have intermediate tree anchors.

The bolts over Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst are a short, easy scramble down from the clifftop; they are located on the front side of a large block towards the front of the buttress itself. See the picture under the Mme G's route, which shows what you're looking for. "Back in the day", this rappel used to go from the large tree on the very front corner of the buttress, and getting into position to rappel was ... airy. Even now, it's mostly free-hanging. Two ropes will get you to the ground, or there are a second set of bolts mid-cliff for use with one rope.

35 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 190
Northern Pillar
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 396
Minty
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 132
Tipsy Trees
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 420
Beginner's Delight
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 191
Hawk
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 101
Triple Bulges
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 186
Asphodel
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 295
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 933
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 319
Snooky's Return
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 135
Columbia
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 117
Friends and Lovers
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 209
Le Teton
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 147
Beatle Brow Bulge
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 24
Tetonia
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northern Pillar
 190
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
Minty
 396
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Tipsy Trees
 132
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Beginner's Delight
 420
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Hawk
 191
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Triple Bulges
 101
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Asphodel
 186
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Finger Locks or Cedar Box
 295
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
 933
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Snooky's Return
 319
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Columbia
 135
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Friends and Lovers
 117
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad
Le Teton
 209
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Beatle Brow Bulge
 147
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Tetonia
 24
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in The Guides' Wall (Madame G's) »

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