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Suggested Page Improvements to The Gunks
Under the "Where to Eat" Section:
The Bistro Mountain Store switched ownership and is now called the Mountain Harbor Deli. The new owners kept a lot of the same sandwich items and added some of their own, and it's still a very popular meet-up spot for climbers in the morning.
https://www.facebook.com/MtnHarborDeli
(845) 633-8705
Avery
- I find it odd that it mentions possibly doubling up on the red tricam, but not the pink. The pink and black are the most important to double-up on in my opinion, followed by the red. I think it's universally accepted by anyone that uses tricams in the Gunks that pink is the most useful (I think many people don't know the black exists, hence it being less popular..)
- Rock Da Pasta, very chill pasta restaurant that is very vegan friendly and also dirtbag friendly.
- Mexicali Blue- Good, big, cheap burritos. Very popular and tiny, there is often a long wait (i.e. 25 minutes) especially on weekends, and you will rarely get a seat, so plan on eating them in your car or somewhere else. Also vegan friendly, but fewer options.
- Karma Road: All-vegan cafe / deli. Opens earlier than most places (8am), so a useful place to grab coffee / smoothie / sandwich on the way to climbing in the morning. Good food, obviously veg-friendly, and seating indoors and out (so you don't have to smell each other..)
Rock da Pasta has closed.
There are some new & not mentioned restaurants worth checking out:
New Paltz: Bangkok Cafe (Thai), Garvan's (pub, nice dinners), Gomen Kudasai (Japanese noodle house - many vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free options)
Rosendale: Garden House (tasty artisan pizza & middle eastern food)
Highland: Gunks Haus (German, nice view)
Gardiner: Tuthillhouse (pricey but new chef is great, and mixologist is fantastic)
Check out the new editions of the Gunks Apps, there's far more than just the Trapps.
Worth noting that on nice weather weekends, especially in the fall, the parking lots fill up early.
Other Resources: I also have restaurant info and other Gunks beta on my website, http://cliffmama.com
"The definitive guides to the Gunks are the The Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks: The Trapps and The Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks: The Near Trapps and Millbrook books, most recently in grey and maroon, respectively, from Dick Williams. "
Dick Williams has a new version of "The Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks" which has a blue color (not grey - that was a previous edition).
http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/join#basic
The ratings at the Gunks are stiff; beware of a climb with a "+" at the end of its rating. Climbs like [[105801058]] (5.7+), [[105799118]] (5.7+), [[105799085]] (5.8+), [[105803592]] (5.8+), [[105841807]] (5.9+), and [[105799053]] (5.10+) will seem like sandbags to many climbers. Climbing overhanging rock, even with jugs, requires endurance and commitment. Most climbers new to the Gunks drop down a few grades in their first leads to get a feel for the rock, the ratings, and to learn how to place pro in the horizontal cracks.
The best time to climb at the Gunks is during the fall: September and October are the prime climbing season. Mid-October brings the fall colors to the area, and climbers will have to vie with "leaf peepers" for restaurants and places to stay in New Paltz. Climbing in the spring is also popular, but tends to be wetter and more buggy. Summer is hot and humid (don't miss the swimming hole), and winter offers a few climbable days. [[New Paltz weather forecast]]http://www.erh.noaa.gov/ifps/MapClick.php?CityName=New+Paltz&state=NY&site=ALY
The Gunks is one of the oldest climbing areas in the country. Fritz Wiessner first climbed at the Gunks in 1935, and he and Hans Kraus put up many classic routes in the 1940s. [[105798994]], established in 1941, remains one of the most exposed and exciting 5.6 routes any climber will ever do, and should be on every visiting climber's tick list.
Most of the Gunks is part of the [[Mohonk Preserve]]http://www.mohonkpreserve.org, a land trust dedicated to preserving and protecting the northern Shawangunk Ridge. Climbers must purchase a $20 (as of June 2018) day pass to climb at the Gunks, or else buy an [[annual pass]]http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/join#basic ($95 as of June 2018). Stop at the Visitor's Center, on Rt. 44/55 just below the cliffs, for more information or to get your pass. Passes are also often available on weekends from rangers at the steel bridge, the West Trapps lot, or at Lower Coxing, among others.
The ratings at the Gunks are stiff; beware of a climb with a "+" at the end of its rating. Climbs like [[105801058]] (5.7+), [[105799118]] (5.7+), [[105799085]] (5.8+), [[105803592]] (5.8+), [[105841807]] (5.9+), and [[105799053]] (5.10+) will seem like sandbags to many climbers. Climbing overhanging rock, even with jugs, requires endurance and commitment. Most climbers new to the Gunks drop down a few grades in their first leads to get a feel for the rock, the ratings, and to learn how to place pro in the horizontal cracks.
The best time to climb at the Gunks is during the fall: September and October are the prime climbing season. Mid-October brings the fall colors to the area, and climbers will have to vie with "leaf peepers" for restaurants and places to stay in New Paltz. Climbing in the spring is also popular, but tends to be wetter and more buggy. Summer is hot and humid (don't miss the swimming hole), and winter offers a few climbable days. [[New Paltz weather forecast]]http://www.erh.noaa.gov/ifps/MapClick.php?CityName=New+Paltz&state=NY&site=ALY
The Gunks is one of the oldest climbing areas in the country. Fritz Wiessner first climbed at the Gunks in 1935, and he and Hans Kraus put up many classic routes in the 1940s. [[105798994]], established in 1941, remains one of the most exposed and exciting 5.6 routes any climber will ever do, and should be on every visiting climber's tick list.
Most of the Gunks is part of the [[Mohonk Preserve]]http://www.mohonkpreserve.org, a land trust dedicated to preserving and protecting the northern Shawangunk Ridge. Climbers must purchase a $20 (as of 2018) day pass to climb at the Gunks, or else buy an [[annual pass]]http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/join#basic ($95 as of 2018). Stop at the Visitor's Center, on Rt. 44/55 just below the cliffs, for more information or to get your pass. Passes are also often available on weekends from rangers at the steel bridge, the West Trapps lot, or at Lower Coxing, among others. If you get a day pass, keep your wristband, as the $20 cost can be credited toward the cost of an annual pass.
[[The Nears]]108142181 is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as [[105798818]], the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.
[[105798956]] is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and [[105801297]] is worth the walk!
[[105799181]] has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the [[Mohonk Mountain House]]http://www.mohonk.com, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, [[Alpine Endeavors]]http://alpineendeavors.com/.
[[105896719]], in [[Minnewaska State Park]]http://nysparks.state.ny.us/parks/info.asp?parkID=78, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A Mohonk Preserve pass won't get you in here; a separate day use fee is charged, and separate annual passes are available.
Other Gunks climbing areas, such as Lost City and Bonticou, are under-documented to reduce traffic as part of the preserve's plan to manage climber impact on the local ecology. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at [[Rock & Snow]]http://www.rockandsnow.com, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.
Suggested changes in bold below:
The traditional paper guide books to the Gunks are the [[The Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks: The Trapps]]http://www.rockandsnow.com/2987/the-climbers-guide-to-the-shawangunks-the-trapps/ and [[The Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks: The Near Trapps and Millbrook]]http://www.rockandsnow.com/35680/The-Climber's-Guide-to-the-Shawangunks%3A-The-Near-Trapps-and-Millbrook/?gclid=CMfKrKDy48wCFYEehgodoIkPbw , from Dick Williams.
For mobile devices, get the Gunks App - both iPhone and Android versions are available. Guides to the Trapps, Nears, Peterskill, Trapps Bouldering and Peterskill Bouldering are each offered. This offers GPS navigation and high res TOPO images.
Alternatively - people should at least be aware the Gunks App has GPS route locating.
Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.
Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.
A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:
* a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above.
* a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent)
* black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes)
* blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent)
* #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent)
* 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings)
* 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners)
* A Yates Screamer
Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:
* extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders
* a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent)
* a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent)
* a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat athleta.
* larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5)
* medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)
The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.
Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.
Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.
Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. [[105798994]], [[105799486]], and especially [[105799687]] are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.
Visit [[Rock & Snow]]http://www.rockandsnow.com, the local climbing shop, at 44 Main St. in New Paltz, for all your gear and beta needs.
Published by Wolverine in early 2020, a new full-color guidebook is available: Gunks Climbing, by Andy Salo, Christian Fracchia, and Eric Ratkowski. This book covers the Trapps to the Slime Wall and the Near Trapps to the end of the Workout Wall. It features route descriptions and photographs produced in sync with the Gunks App, as well as extensive historical articles and orientation maps.
The most comprehensive print guide books to the Gunks are the [[The Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks: The Trapps]]http://www.rockandsnow.com/2987/the-climbers-guide-to-the-shawangunks-the-trapps/ and [[The Climber's Guide to the Shawangunks: The Near Trapps and Millbrook]]https://www.rockandsnow.com/35680/The-Climber%27s-Guide-to-the-Shawangunks%3A-The-Near-Trapps-and-Millbrook/ from Dick Williams.
For mobile devices, get the [[Gunks App]]https://gunksapps.com/ - both iPhone and Android versions are available. Guides to the Trapps, Nears, Peterskill, Trapps Bouldering and Peterskill Bouldering are each offered. This app offers GPS navigation and high-res cliff images.
Mike Rawdon and Marty Molitoris recently published A Rock Climber's Guide to the Peter's Kill Climbing Area - find it at Rock & Snow, the Peterskill center, or on on Ebay. A mobile version is available through the Gunks App.
Other guides include The Gunks Select, a best-of selection covering the Trapps, Nears and Skytop by Dick Williams, Vulgarian Press, 1996 (out of print); The Gunks Guide, Third Edition, Todd Swain, Falcon Press, 1995; and THE GUNKS, from Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn (Extreme Angles Publishing).
The Gunks (short for Shawangunks) is one of the premier climbing areas in the country. Located near [[New Paltz, NY]]https://www.google.com/maps/place/New+Paltz,+NY+12561/@41.7474747,-74.09694,14z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x89dd1884bdee8f8d:0x82c17e4b65e32b6f!8m2!3d41.7475933!4d-74.0868095, the Gunks is about 85 miles from the NYC metropolitan area, making it a popular weekend destination. The rock is [[quartz conglomerate]]http://csmres.jmu.edu/geollab/Fichter/SedRx/Rocks/Congqtsand.html, solid rock with horizontal rather than vertical cracks. Climbing at the Gunks is characterized by roofs, jugs, traverses, big air, and sometimes "sporty" pro. The Gunks is famous for great one-to-three-pitch climbs of all levels of difficulty. You'll find some of the best easy and moderate trad climbs in the country at the Gunks. There are a few bolted climbs at the Gunks, but no sport climbs.
The ratings at the Gunks are stiff; beware of a climb with a "+" at the end of its rating. Climbs like [[105801058]] (5.7+), [[105799118]] (5.7+), [[105799085]] (5.8+), [[105803592]] (5.8+), [[105841807]] (5.9+), and [[105799053]] (5.10+) will seem like sandbags to many climbers. Climbing overhanging rock, even with jugs, requires endurance and commitment. Most climbers new to the Gunks drop down a few grades in their first leads to get a feel for the rock, the ratings, and to learn how to place pro in the horizontal cracks.
The best time to climb at the Gunks is during the fall: September and October are the prime climbing season. Mid-October brings the fall colors to the area, and climbers will have to vie with "leaf peepers" for restaurants and places to stay in New Paltz. Climbing in the spring is also popular, but tends to be wetter and more buggy. Summer is hot and humid (don't miss the swimming hole), and winter offers a few climbable days.
The Gunks is one of the oldest climbing areas in the country. Fritz Wiessner first climbed at the Gunks in 1935, and he and Hans Kraus put up many classic routes in the 1940s. [[105798994]], established in 1941, remains one of the most exposed and exciting 5.6 routes any climber will ever do, and should be on every visiting climber's tick list.
Most of the Gunks is part of the [[Mohonk Preserve]]http://www.mohonkpreserve.org, a land trust dedicated to preserving and protecting the northern Shawangunk Ridge. Climbers must purchase a $20 (as of 2018) day pass to climb at the Gunks, or else buy an [[annual pass]]http://www.mohonkpreserve.org/join#basic ($115 as of 2022). Stop at the Visitor's Center, on Rt. 44/55 just below the cliffs, for more information or to get your pass. Passes are also often available on weekends from rangers at the steel bridge, the West Trapps lot, or at Lower Coxing, among others. If you get a day pass, keep your wristband, as the $20 cost can be credited toward the cost of an annual pass.
