All Locations > Colorado > Canon City > Shelf Rd

The Gym Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Gym

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	In the Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tapped Out S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Free Willie V1-2 5
	Farewell Transmission S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crimp and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	S&M Crack S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Must Love Dogs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Lockdown S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	My Generation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Meathead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Solar Flex S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Happy Hinzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Demagogue S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Green Bonus, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	7,050 ft	2,149 m
GPS:	38.6329, -105.2165 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	168,418 total · 550/month
Shared By:	Richard M. Wright on Nov 29, 1999 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Situated just North of the big hairpin and tad up the road, The Gym holds some of Shelf Roads most brilliant (and difficult) climbs. The wall is East facing and gets sun, therefore, only part of the day. Climbing at the Gym reminds me of Sinks Canyon or Ten sleep, with somewhat fewer pockets. The newer lines still retain sharp edges and spines, but for most routes these have been eroded away. Most routes can be done with a 50 meter rope, although a 60 meter is preferred overall. The occasional two pitch routes are readily done with the same equipment. For its overall climbing value, I think The Gym is the best crag at Shelf, with almost none of the discontinuities found at the Bank.

Getting There

EDIT: The current "approved" approach is to park at the Bank Campground parking area, then follow the Cactus cliff trail down into the drainage for The Bank, up the other side, east along the base of the Bank to reach the old Cactus cliff access road, then up the road, along the base of The Vault to the pit toilet below the Cash Wall, then east again to reach the far left end of Cactus Cliff. Then follow the Cactus Cliff cliff-base trail along the entire length of Cactus, then to Spiney Ridge, along the entire legth of Spiney, around the point, then north past "The New Gym", to eventually reach The Gym. Sounds like a pretty long approach, huh? Basically its ~15 minutes further than Cactus, depending on your specific destination.

The upside is that there will be zero crowds once you finally arrive.

87 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Gym

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 421 ● Ga-stoned Again Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 290 ● The Crack of Dawn Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 148 ● Crystal Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 328 ● The Raw and the Roasted Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 185 ● Pulley Mammoth Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 145 ● In the Morning, You'll Be Mine Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 167 ● The Gym Arete Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 70 ● Spontaneous Combustion Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 116 ● The Ejection Seat Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 44 ● Gym Arete Direct Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 33 ● Ejection Generation Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 53 ● Head Cheese Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 40 ● My Generation Sport
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c 42 ● The Example Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 29 ● Deeper Shade Of Soul Sport

● Ga-stoned Again

421

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

● The Crack of Dawn

290

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport

● Crystal

148

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport

● The Raw and the Roasted

328

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport

● Pulley Mammoth

185

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport

● In the Morning, You'll Be Mine

145

5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport

● The Gym Arete

167

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● Spontaneous Combustion

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

● The Ejection Seat

116

5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

● Gym Arete Direct

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

● Ejection Generation

5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport

● Head Cheese

5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport

● My Generation

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport

● The Example

5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport

● Deeper Shade Of Soul

5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport

More Classic Climbs in The Gym »

Sun & Shade

Sun Angles Details:

Routes Mostly Face: Northeast · East · Southeast

Sunny Roughly 6am to 2pm during high season

6am

8pm

Details: The crag starts facing due east at the New Gym, these routes get shade early. As one travels right, the wall faces more Southeast. Many of the popular routes face north-east and get shade around noon but the Ejection Wall loses sun in the early afternoon.