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Routes in Redgarden - Tower One
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Alice in Bucketland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Apple Strudel T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Art Of Slappiness, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Art's Spar T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Layton Never S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Blueberry Boodle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Body Tremors T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Chockstone Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Consummation Nite T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Daedalus T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dandelion Wine S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Deadpoint T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Disclosure (new name) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Doub-Griffith T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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E.L. 200 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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E.L.100 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Eleven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Exhibit A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ R |
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Exit Stage Left T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Flashdance T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fresh Garbage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Grand Giraffe T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Grand Giraffe Slot Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Icarus T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Ignition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Italian Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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King Cobra, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Magic Bus T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Magic Carpet Ride S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Magic Route T C2+ |
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Mellow Fellow T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mellow Yellow T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Memory Lapse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mickey Mouse Nailup T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Much Slater (left variation) T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Neptune's Bible T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Neurosis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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One and a Half Hours of Power T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Over the Shoulder Stuff T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Parting Shot T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pigeon Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Psycho Pigeon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Psychosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Reaper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rocky Raccoon T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Roll Over Rover T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Rover T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Ruper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Short Arm Inspection. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Smoke & Mirrors T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Song of the Dodo T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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South Face of Tower One T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Super Slab T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Superspar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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To RP Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Untouchables, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vertigo T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Arete (of T1), The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Without A Net T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Fellow T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ytrid Deed, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Scott Bennett and Blake Herrington, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 2,379 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Bennett on Sep 22, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a new pitch starting off the Upper Ramp of Redgarden Wall, between upper Ruper and The Serpent. It goes to the 2-bolt anchor atop The Serpent's first pitch.
First, approach the route by doing something that takes you to the Upper Ramp. For a similar grade, maybe check out Evangeline (A0 through the roof above the 11a first pitch and do the spectacular 5.10+ 2nd pitch). Ruper, Rosy Crucifixion, Le Toit, Guenese, and many other routes can also bring you to the Upper Ramp.
The Serpent starts in a striking, left-facing, left-leaning dihedral. It quickly bust right out onto a hueco-ed face and climbs just above the leaning corner.
Start King Cobra 40 left and uphill of The Serpent. Pull a low chossy roof into a small, LF corner, and then continue up the face via thin seams (5.8 R, small wires and RPs). About 50 up, join the major, LF dihedral (in which The Serpent started). Stem up the steep corner (5.10) with good gear (0.5-2 cams). Pull over the lip of the dihedral, now more of a roof (crux), and join The Serpent above its last bolt. Climb the last 10 of that route to a comfy ledge and 2 bolt anchor.
This is a fun pitch, worthy as a top-rope after leading P1 of The Serpent (no directionals needed), or as a lead. We TR'ed first to check it out and do some cleaning, but the gear is definitely good enough to lead this ground up.
First, approach the route by doing something that takes you to the Upper Ramp. For a similar grade, maybe check out Evangeline (A0 through the roof above the 11a first pitch and do the spectacular 5.10+ 2nd pitch). Ruper, Rosy Crucifixion, Le Toit, Guenese, and many other routes can also bring you to the Upper Ramp.
The Serpent starts in a striking, left-facing, left-leaning dihedral. It quickly bust right out onto a hueco-ed face and climbs just above the leaning corner.
Start King Cobra 40 left and uphill of The Serpent. Pull a low chossy roof into a small, LF corner, and then continue up the face via thin seams (5.8 R, small wires and RPs). About 50 up, join the major, LF dihedral (in which The Serpent started). Stem up the steep corner (5.10) with good gear (0.5-2 cams). Pull over the lip of the dihedral, now more of a roof (crux), and join The Serpent above its last bolt. Climb the last 10 of that route to a comfy ledge and 2 bolt anchor.
This is a fun pitch, worthy as a top-rope after leading P1 of The Serpent (no directionals needed), or as a lead. We TR'ed first to check it out and do some cleaning, but the gear is definitely good enough to lead this ground up.
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